Ranger Mods

Gday I read this article this morning and thought it to be interesting and I’m glad I went the provent 200 over the flashy billet alloy ones and it’s proven they are not very good

http://www.unsealed4x4.com.au/u4x4/issu ... Send+3#113



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Not a bad article. I posted it in the general section this morning also.

Also glad I went the 200.

Are there any sources who offer a complete installation kit for the 2018 and will ship internationally?

Update: I ordered the OS-PROV-15 kit from Western Filters.

I agree totally with the article and I wish that when I ordered my "kit" from Provent that I had specified the 200. The kit supplied included the fuel pre-filter as well as the Provent 150.
The bracket is fine and well made however with a couple of exceptions:-
1.) The body of the pre-filter is in the way of easy access to the retaining bolts, I replaced them with Unbreako socket head screws but even they are a shit to undo - which is required in order to replace the filter.
2.) The fuel pre-filter is in the way of the removal of the cap of the oil catch can to replace the 150 internal filter.
In short, its a good "kit" but not that well thought out. I'll replace the 150 with a 200 as soon as my finances permit, as to the pre-filter, well, I'll just have to learn to live with it.

Addendum. With a very red face. the dual filter oil catch can kit was supplied to me by Direction Plus NOT Provent !!!

Secondly I just replaced the Provent 150 filter and it looks as good as new. proof indeed that having a regular 10,000 oil change and having the EGR deleted or blanked off and the oil catch can installed as early in the life of the vehicle as possible is justified.

My catch can is dry and I have done nothing about the EGR

It all boils down to the motor, you either have a good one or a breather.

I peeked under the wheel well yesterday to see if any oil had accumulated in the clear drain pipe, but it was just as clean as it was when I installed the catch can. Either I have a great breathing engine, or the catch can doesn't work.

MikeK wrote: ↑Sat Mar 23, 2019 11:28 pm I peeked under the wheel well yesterday to see if any oil had accumulated in the clear drain pipe, but it was just as clean as it was when I installed the catch can. Either I have a great breathing engine, or the catch can doesn't work.

I know which it is, and you don't void your warranty by playing with the EGR

RossPat wrote: ↑Sat Mar 23, 2019 2:53 pm My catch can is dry and I have done nothing about the EGR

It all boils down to the motor, you either have a good one or a breather.

If its totally dry - as in no oil smear at all - then something is very wrong with your pipework and or the oil catch can. I have heard of the hoses being connected up the wrong way around to the oil catch can which in some cases ( with some makes of oil catch can ) causes the rocker cover gasket to leak as the engine becomes pressurised.

All engines have to breathe, the crank case holds a given volume, the pistons coming down cause the gas/air/oil mist to be compressed just as the pistons rising cause partial vacuums of the same mixture so the volume is for ever changing.
The only exception to this in my experience is/was the Ford Escort BDA 1800 cc dry sump rally engine. This engine has a secondary belt driven pump that sucked every drop of oil - and gas - out of the engine and pumped it to a remote reservoir tank in the boot. The tank had a pressure relief filler cap. The engine when running was under a partial vacuum all the time.

Note that short trips all the time will always cause a condensation build up in the catch cans. So in this case they should be check more often.

I drive 20km stop, 20km stop nearly everyday which does cause buildup. Long trips do not cause this.

Iainboyd wrote: ↑Sun Mar 24, 2019 9:03 amIf its totally dry - as in no oil smear at all - then something is very wrong with your pipework and or the oil catch can.

It has an oil shine as it should, but nothing to drain or dirty the filter, perfect.

I can only think that in your twice daily 20 kilometre everyday drive(s) that you engine coolant and oil aren't getting up to correct operating temperatures.
If I drive from my place to Penrith, 38 kilometres down-hill, my engine only just gets up to 83 degrees, if however I drive up to Katoomba - 14 kilometres up-hill - its up to 87 degrees before I've gone half-way.

Iainboyd wrote: ↑Mon Mar 25, 2019 9:24 am I can only think that in your twice daily 20 kilometre everyday drive(s) that you engine coolant and oil aren't getting up to correct operating temperatures.
If I drive from my place to Penrith, 38 kilometres down-hill, my engine only just gets up to 83 degrees, if however I drive up to Katoomba - 14 kilometres up-hill - its up to 87 degrees before I've gone half-way.

Yes this is correct.

I have a provent and travel 100km to work and back. Installed it 3 weeks ago and the filter has lost it nice white color and is now a very dark grey black.
I think it takes a while for the filter to fill up before it drains so it may be 4 or 5 months before it starts to drain.
I had one in my nissan D40 and it took months to get to the clear hose.

Stewart wrote: ↑Wed Apr 10, 2019 3:24 pm I have a provent and travel 100km to work and back. Installed it 3 weeks ago and the filter has lost it nice white color and is now a very dark grey black.
I think it takes a while for the filter to fill up before it drains so it may be 4 or 5 months before it starts to drain.
I had one in my nissan D40 and it took months to get to the clear hose.

That's good, the longer it takes to get any rubbish in it the better.
It means you don't have a heavy breathing engine.

I looked at the filter this afternoon. It has a fine coat of oil around it, but the drain pipe is still squeaky clean...as far as I can tell. I cracked open the valve, and nothing dripped out.

That's what you want to see, just a little mist