Ranger Mods

I've just finished installing a dual battery system in my 2020 XLT. AGM battery in tray, Redarc BCDC1225 charger.

It's ready to go just needs the ignition sensing wire to be connected to the Redarc unit. I had this same system in my BT50 and sourced an ignition trigger from the fuse box under the bonnet, using a piggy back fuse link (unused heated seats fuse location from memory).

Is there an easy to access ignition triggered power source somewhere on the Ranger? I could use the same fuse box position but the box is sealed, I don't recall that on the BT50. Back near the tray would be good - there's a number of wiring loom connectors hanging off the back of the cab under the fuel filler (it's an aluminium tray, not the stock tub).

It will be due for it's 3000km service in a couple of weeks so I'll get them to enable dual battery mode then.

I'm sure I have ignition on from the LHR around the trailer light loom connector. I can have a look tomorrow. I have a Redarc and my van fridge ignition switched.

Bala1 wrote: ↑Mon Oct 12, 2020 6:35 am I'm sure I have ignition on from the LHR around the trailer light loom connector. I can have a look tomorrow. I have a Redarc and my van fridge ignition switched.

Thanks Bala. I've decided I'll just run it from a piggy back fuse under the dash, I have to run a light bar switch wire in anyway so I'll run another wire for the Redarc.

From memory so could be wrong. If your going to get the smart alternator turned off do you need a trigger wire. I thought if you had a standard alternator you didn't connect the ignition wire, if you had a smart alternator you connected it to an ignition source.

Corndog wrote: ↑Mon Oct 12, 2020 1:54 pm From memory so could be wrong. If your going to get the smart alternator turned off do you need a trigger wire. I thought if you had a standard alternator you didn't connect the ignition wire, if you had a smart alternator you connected it to an ignition source.

I think because I have the Redarc ignition switched model (BCDC1220-IGN) it must have an ignition trigger or it wont work, regardless of input voltage. The Redarc install instructions specifies either the BCDC1220 OR the BCDC1220-IGN, it doesn't mention using the IGN model on a standard alternator.

I removed this from my 2014 BT50 which didn't have a smart alternator AFAIK, but I admit I never tried using it without the switch wire as that's what the Redarc instructions said to do.

Will it actually work without the dual battery mode enabled?

Download and read the manual. It is designed to work with variable output alternator. It will need the ignition wire connected. You do not need dual battery enabled.

Other models only need the ignition wire for lithium charge profile.

Bala1 wrote: ↑Mon Oct 12, 2020 5:30 pm Download and read the manual.

Which manual?

I understand what the Redarc unit does, but I don't know how the Ranger smart alternator works. Will the alternator fire up when it senses a current draw from the BCDC unit? Or does it wait for the start battery to run down to a point and then start providing current to the system (and subsequently the BCDC)?

I was referring to the Redarc manual.

The charge system will just sense the bcdc load similar to having driving lights on. It will not alter the ford settings that determine the stage of charge and charge rate for the start battery.

The bcdc is designed for variable voltage alternators as they come standard.

I don't know what exactly Ford enabled dual battery mode is. In Forscan charge parameters can be changed. But neither is necessary for your bcdc to operate.

I understand the BCDC will take whatever voltage it can get and boost/regulate it to charge the 2nd battery, as that's what they are designed to do. I shouldn't have said "will it work", I really meant "will it work optimally".

My lack of understanding is with the Ranger alternator.

If I don't have dual battery mode enabled, will the alternator still supply a full 20 amps current to my 2nd battery when I start the engine, until the BCDC stops charging it?

Or will the alternator "decide" not to produce 20 amps based on the start battery voltage and probably a dozen other factors?

Anyway, I'll just try it as soon as I get a chance to connect that ignition trigger wire up. I have a Victron BMV712 battery monitor installed so I'll be able to monitor what current is going into the battery.

The alternator will supply the required current for tge bcdc without dual battery mode enabled. No different to adding driving lights.

I have changed mine in forescan. It charges Start battery charges mostly at 14.2 but will drop lower after long runs. Still original start battery.

120amp agm auxiliary I have set on lithium profile, bcdc charges bulk v at 14.4 and then float at 13.6.

Awesome info thanks Bala. I can't see any reason to change to dual battery mode then (as you said), if it's going to give the BCDC as much power as it wants I might as well let the Ford alternator management do it's thing.

As I said I dont know what the Ford dual battery mode is.

Monitor data and see what your start battery is being charged at.

IMO, especially if you do a lot of short trips it is advantages using forscan and changing to the 90% setting, gives a bulk charge rate of 14.4V or there abouts. Mine runs at 14.2 using obd link to monitor. This gives a good charge rate but keeps battery below gassing V. My start battery charge rate does still drop eventually but not a lot. It is however the original battery so if I put a new one in this would likely change.

Just above the LHR spring shackle there is a 2 pin plug. Red/Black-white in red/brown-black/white out. This is ignition on. I think for the tub 12v outlet. Mine has a tray. I have used this via fuses to trigger my bc/dc and a solenoid for my van fridge power supply.

This is where I read about dual battery mode:

https://www.saeb.net/viewtopic.php?f=12 ... hilit=dual

it reads like there's an "enable dual battery" option in Forscan but I haven't looked at it yet. Will order the usb adapter while I'm here actually.

Edit: read through the thread further and looks like it was removed and replaced with the SOC setting you've mentioned above.

I've already run the trigger wire under the dash just needed the correct sized piggy back fuse holder which I bought today. I did wonder about that plug but stupidly didn't think to put a multimeter on it. Good to know anyway.

The rear plug is acc switched as well as ign on so not the best option anyway.

Is there a eed for a dcdc charger when you enable duel battery mode? Could you use a VSR? Wouldnt it charge faster than the dcdc could?

manyanna wrote: ↑Mon Nov 23, 2020 12:27 am Is there a eed for a dcdc charger when you enable duel battery mode? Could you use a VSR? Wouldnt it charge faster than the dcdc could?

It is a personal choice. Either or, you will find other post on the VSR topic.

Stewart, Im lost. I want to charge a aux. battery in tub and connect to caravan with 2 batteries and a bms. Isnt running a dcdc in tub an overkill as one in caravan already? Could I run a vrs to tub and onto caravan? If I get smart turned off wouldnt that charge faster?
Sorry for all questions, I did my time on diesels with pull cables to stop them, no electrics.
Thank you for help
.

Not nessesarly, it comes down to the chemistry of the battery alot and what voltage the vehicles alternator is putting out. A DCDC is to cover a lot of variable in different vehicle makes models and battery chemistry.

The battery will absorb what it can. Example, 120amp battery in my tub running off VSR pulls about 100 odd amps when it is low in the morning but only for about 30 seconds, it then settles to about 20 amps which is approx what my AGM is rated to anyway. I have had no issues getting 7 years out of an AGM this way but my feed is good and my voltage is good.

I see no issues with what you want to do. VSR to tub as long as you use wire that can cope with high current draw then onto caravan where you have your DCDC. If I had a van, I would be doing the same.

Smart charge on or off does not make a huge difference. If the rear battery is absorbing it the alternator will run either way. Mine is still on 75% SOC with no issues. Other prefer 100% SOC as it will keep the alternator on at all times until the main battery is 100%. Set 85% then same applies, alternator will be at full voltage until 85% or if nothing else is pulling current.

Thank you

Gday all,

Are the rangers in cabin fuse boxes micro fuses? Meaning id need a micro fuse tap from jaycar or similar?
Also, whats the best Fuse Slot to to use for a PX3 with push start?

TIA

OZ

Cant believe people make this so hard.......... there's at least one fuse that goes live with ignition. You have to run the B&S to the battery so it takes 10 mins more to grab ignition from the fuse box that's right there. Then just run an ignition wire in the same conduit as the B&S all the way down the car to the DCDC.

I used the spare pin in the bcm
Download the body manual for your vehicle
https://www.ford.com.au/owners/vehicle- ... t-manuals/
for my vehicle it was on page 51 or 52 of the manual
It tells you the part number can get them through ford
any other plugs you might need the name part number of could be here
https://parts.ford.com/content/dam/ford ... 0Final.pdf

Hi gents, I'm still a little confused as to whether I should or shouldn't enable DBM on my PXII.
AGM Start/Primary, 120Ah LiFePo4 in the tub with Redarc BCDC1225 charger feeding a couple of 12v Fridges.
I'm reasonably familiar with using Forscan, but what about enabling DBM in this case?
Does enabling DBM disable the 'Smart' Alternator functionality?
There's a comment from Stewart on this topic to leave DBM off and let the alternator do it's thing?
The guy who had this vehicle before me had an AGM in the tub, with the IGN wire of RedArc to +ve Batt . not an Ign +ve. which means (I think) that it's ignoring the 'Smart' Alternator?

Sorry I'm confused, but hoping someone can advise best practice here

Which model is the charger.

The newer ones are bcdc1225d

Older are just bcdc1225 or bcdc1225lv