Ranger Mods

I found this website and installation guide to be of great help.

Just need to source some wedges now.

https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/driv ... index.html

Good luck, 2 or 3 degree are about the best it will get but still not perfect.

Snake racing I think it was, sells steels wedges. Do not use eBay specials or aluminium as they deform.

Ended up getting them from Superior Engineering in Western Australia. Reputable supplier i thought, and a lot cheaper than other places. Just hoping the product is as good as it sounds and not crap and cheap

2 degree you should be ok as the centre bolt still just reaches, if you were to go 3 degree it may be pushing it.

Those ones just slip in which makes the install easier and quicker where as the ones from snake have a smaller centre hole so the bolt goes through them and gives full purchase in the bolts locating hole on the axle.

See how you go, but just an fyi if you find your not happy.

Just found this thread and its been an interesting read - I've been contemplating a lift kit for a few weeks and having discussed with Hilux owning colleagues found that some Hilux lift kits have wedges to correct drive shaft angles and others don't.

I've yet to see a Ranger lift kit that includes wedges as part of the kit.

Not every Ranger shows symptoms and requires the wedges so they are generally sold on a, if you have symptoms basis.

Update, have car booked in for next Tuesday and it will be done while I wait.

Seems like a top bloke so we will see how it all turns out. He actually listened to me as I explained all the things I have done to resolve the issue, he said you have done every that could basically be done and said my angles looked pretty good. Yay to me.

Interesting is that he turns the rear shaft to 45 degrees.

We are going to swap out the centre bearing as he advised it is softer than normal and has sagged 15mm, can fit his finger in there, then turn 45 degrees the re balance. There bearing it self is in ok condition and will not self destruct anytime soon.

Around $300 removed/refitted by them, I see this is fair and stated I understand how things work so get it done while I wait rather than let the car sit for another hour in case i bitch about the price and it only took x amount of time. Honestly price is good and if they did it in 20 min I would still pay. A full resolution is probably worth more.

Asked the question, what happens if we still have issues. His answer we will just figure it out until we resolve it. Double yay.

He told me a funny story about someone that had the double cardan done through him etc. I may repeat it one day.

Any will give feed back on out come and if all goes to plan will put up his details.

Hi Saeb

Did you get the drive line shudder sorted?

Cheers,


Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Nearly.

Uni's were rooted and with 75k it a bit average. We did uni's, centre bearing, turned rear shaft 45 degrees and balanced it.

I have a tiny bit of take off shudder but nothing like before and a lot of other weird feelings have gone from the car.

I picked a rear engine mount ( transmission mount ) today and will fit tomorrow as it is a bit soft and this is the 3rd revision by Ford for these vehicles since 2015, so that says something. I will fit this tomorrow and remove all centre bearing spacers, this will possibly solve the rest. Cost for the mount genuine to me was $64, it's looks like it should be close to $200 and that is what the after market part costs so for $64 I'm just doing it.

So anyone with vibration should be checking for play in the uni's and this may only be picked up be a trained person and from what they showed me with it out and on the bench.

Overall at this point things are progressing in a positive way.

Hi Saeb,

Thanks for the update.

When you say that the rear drive shaft was turned 45° was that just from the slip joint back, or was the center uni turned to 45° as well?

My Ranger has a very slight vibration at about 16 kph, putting the driveshafts in phase did help but didn't completely eliminate it. I'm wondering if I should try what you have done.

I only have 15K on my Ranger so you would hope UJ's etc would still be in good condition.
Interestingly the Dobinsons parabolics I have under mine came fitted with 3° castor wedges.

Cheers

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Rear shaft only, yolks are 45 degree to each other which is close to factory anyway.

Remove centre being spacers and i think it is slightly worse, so will put one back in a day and see what happens.

I may have more info in the coming weeks as they have another one coming in with the same problem so they will spend more time on it. I'm not prepared to go down the double carden at this stage and we had a small discussion in CV joints.

Will look again when back in Melbourne.

Interesting................

SSM 47448 - Effective Aug 6 2018

2015-2018 Ranger 4WD Vehicles Equipped with a 6R80 Transmission - Shudder/Vibration on Take-off
Some 2015-2018 Ranger 4WD vehicles equipped with a 6R80 transmission may experience a slight shudder/vibration on take-off. Should a vehicle present with the condition above, technicians are advised to perform a driveshaft angle measurement of both driveshafts. For additional information, refer to Workshop Manual (WSM) Section 205-01 Driveshaft, General Procedures, Driveshaft Angle Measurement (Steps 1-6). Pay particular attention to the driveshaft orientation as shown in Step 4 (illustration number E211631). Following driveshaft measurement, using IDS 110.03 or later, select and monitor PIDS (TCM) for APP, RPM, vehicle speed, torque converter slip desired and torque converter slip actual. Complete an Electronic Dealer Service Repair (EDSR) referring to this SSM providing the above information and details of any accessories fitted to the vehicle. SSM: 47448

APPLICABLE VEHICLES
2015 - 2018 TRUCK: KD P375A RANGER
2015 TRUCK: KD P375A RANGER
2018 TRUCK: KD P375A RANGER
2015 - 2018 TRUCK: KD P375A RANGER
2015 TRUCK: KD P375A RANGER
2016 - 2018 TRUCK: KD P375A RANGER

Workshop Manual
205-01 Driveshaft 2015 - 2018 Ranger ICA
General Procedures Procedure revision date: 12/24/2018
Driveshaft Angle Measurement
Check

NOTE: This procedure does not apply to CV joints, flex couplers or double cardan joints that are used in some driveshafts. This check is for single-cross and roller-style joints found in the driveshafts.

NOTE: Prior to checking driveline angularity, inspect the U-joints for correct operation.

NOTE: An incorrect driveline angle can cause a vibration or shudder.

NOTE: Driveline angularity is the angular relationship between the engine crankshaft, the driveshaft and the rear axle pinion. Factors determining driveline angularity include ride height, rear spring and engine mounts.

1. NOTE:

General Equipment(s): Digital Inclinometer. Carry out the following preliminary setup steps:
1.Inspect the U-joints for correct operation.
2.Park the vehicle on a level surface such as a drive-on hoist, or back onto a front end alignment rack.
3.Verify the curb position ride height is within specifications with the vehicle unloaded and all of the Tyres are inflated to their normal operating pressures.
4. Calibrate the Digital Inclinometer by placing it on a clean, flat level section of the frame rail and press the ALT-ZERO button.
Vehicles with flat-flanged, split-pin or slip-flanged U-joints

2. NOTE: If equipped, remove the snap ring to allow access to the base of the U-joint cup. Make sure the Digital Inclinometer is seated against the U-joint cup.

NOTE: Rotate the driveshaft until the flange U-joint cup is parallel with the floor. This will simplify taking measurements.

General Equipment(s): Digital Inclinometer. Check and record the flange angle as angle A.



3. General Equipment(s): Digital Inclinometer. Measure the slope of the connecting component. Record the measurement of the component angle as angle B.




Multiple piece driveshafts

4. NOTE: Repeat this step for each center support bearing on the driveshaft.

NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the U-joint snap ring, if equipped, for these measurements.

General Equipment(s): Digital Inclinometer. Measure the slope of the components in front and behind the center support bearing U-joint in the area indicated. Record the front component as angle A and the rear component as angle B.



All vehicles

5. NOTE: When 2 connected components slope in the same direction, subtract the smallest number from the larger number to find the U-joint operating angle. When 2 connected components slope in the opposite direction, add the measurements to find the U-joint operating angle.

Calculate the difference in the slope of the components to determine the U-joint operating angle.

6. NOTE:

The U-joint operating angle is the angle formed by 2 yokes connected by a cross and bearing kit. Ideally, the operating angles on each connection of the driveshaft must:

1. be equal or within one degree of each other.
2. have a 3 degree maximum operating angle.
3. have at least one-half of one degree continuous operating angle.

7. If the angle is not within specifications, repair or adjust to obtain the correct angle. Inspect the engine mounts, transmission mounts, center support bearing mounting, rear suspension, rear axle, rear axle mounting or the frame for wear or damage.

My PX2 has just developed a vibration which, feels like driveline to me.

Worst at 53km/h but noticeable between 51km/h and 62km/h

I've got no modifications at all to suspension or wheels, the vehicle is totally stock.

I had the wheels balanced and rotated yesterday, made no difference.

Vibration doesn't change under braking and cannot be felt through the steering wheel.

Goochie wrote: ↑Tue Apr 09, 2019 8:53 am My PX2 has just developed a vibration which, feels like driveline to me.

Worst at 53km/h but noticeable between 51km/h and 62km/h

I've got no modifications at all to suspension or wheels, the vehicle is totally stock.

I had the wheels balanced and rotated yesterday, made no difference.

Vibration doesn't change under braking and cannot be felt through the steering wheel.

Check the uni's. Unless you know exactly what you are looking for though you may not pick it, I didn't. They do not need much movement.

I'm now confident that my vibration is wheel related, despite a tyre shop and the Ford dealership attempting to balance the wheels.

With the help of some test equipment we use at work (www.dewesoft.com if you have $10k to spare) I measured the frequency of vibration to be 7Hz at around 55-60 km/h. You could also do this by simply counting the number of times you feel it per second.

I then calculated that the tyre diameter of 775mm @ 400 RPM = 58km/h = 6.67Hz!

Therefore my vibration is something to do with the speed of wheel rotation and not tailshaft.

If it were tailshaft, it would most likely be around 3.5 times faster than what it is due to the diff ratio.

Goochie
Are you saying you have after market wheels or the wheels have been out since you bought the car?
If they have been out since you bought the car shouldnt you have felt it before you lifted it?

Stewart wrote: ↑Tue Apr 23, 2019 6:04 am Goochie
Are you saying you have after market wheels or the wheels have been out since you bought the car?
If they have been out since you bought the car shouldnt you have felt it before you lifted it?

Since posting above, the car has been back to Ford for them to have a second attempt at fixing the vibration.

It was a buckled wheel.

Very disappointing that both they and the tyre shop failed to spot this on previous attempts, particularly given the huge number of wheel weights they stuck on there without thinking "this can't be right"

Thinking back to when I was bogged the day before I noticed the vibration, I aired down to 8psi to try and drive out (that's all the "experts" on facebook say you have to do!) but ended up using max trax. Unfortunately I then made the decision that it'd be OK to not air-up again until I was back on the road so I assume the rim got bend hitting a root or rock.

Luckily I'd previously picked up a set of very reasonably priced rims without tyres that the previous owner had changed from new by the dealer, so I simply asked Ford to fit one of those and the problem is now fixed.

Is it normal that I don't have vibrations with a 2.5" lift? Or is it that I don't know what to feel for?

skumancer wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 3:49 pm Is it normal that I don't have vibrations with a 2.5" lift? Or is it that I don't know what to feel for?

You would know if you had it.


An update on my own issue, Uni's done, centre bearing done, balanced. Still crap.

Had a phone call from Hardy Spicer today, we had a long chat and I will go and chat to them in person on Friday.

I have put numerous options on the table and as he advised most have been done and it sometimes fixes it and sometimes does not.

I put forward; Question/Answer based on Rangers.

Cardinal Joint - sometimes resolves sometimes does not.
Single piece tail shaft - seemed to resolve but it is a 4 inch shaft and clearance may be an issue. Big dollars and yolks need to be imported, there was one done in QLD.
Replace centre uni with a CV - has not been done and I like my thought so will talk further about it.

Friday we will measure some angle with proper tools and hopefully put some real brains trust together.

Been a while and a lot of head banging. Pretty sure I have resolved this.

Notes from late post.

1. Hardy Spicer in Dandenong South were great to deal with onsite but never followed me up with a price and never responded to emails anymore. So f@#k them. Poor customer service annoys me and I do not do second chances.

2. So where so I go from here? Get another tailshaft, grabbed one with 10k on it for $100, damn cheaper than me doing uni's and CB earlier. Outcome, it felt a little better but overtime got worse again.

3. Next, remove cator wedges. Bit better and lived with it for a while.

4. Removed my drawers as I wanted the room again, got worse due to height.

5. Removed one leaf from 300kg pack so brought back to 150kg, back to before removing drawer height and marginally better.

6. Maybe its tyres also. Balanced them, bit better.

7. Put another washer under centre bearing, now at about 8mm drop, about the same.

8. Two weeks went by and then I start to get big vibraitions at 100kph, like back off to resolve and watch things vibrate in the cabin. Could have sworn fron CV or lead fell off the tyre as it felt like front.

9. Another wheel balance, free this time. Still the same.

10. Checked front CV's, undone and re torques main CV wheel nuts (36mm if you need to know) check CV's were located properly. All fine.

11. Still had slight vibration on take off so thought may as well try dropping centre bearing some more (the most I ever have), now at 10 to 12mm drop and holy crap, little if no take off vibration, drive train smooth through to 160kph and no in cabin vibrations.

So moral of the story, if you have a drivetrain, driveshaft vibration. Drop the centre bearing more than you would think it needs!! Remove the castor wedges if you have done them, forget about cardinal joint etc. and try the cheapest option first. I will fine tune this now but thinking around 13mm drop will be about right in my case, once confirmed I will make solid packers and not the crappy washers that come with my kit and life will go on.

Happy days after about 4 years of living with this.

hoges wrote: ↑Thu Mar 01, 2018 12:11 pm No I mean the rear tail shaft, after the centre bearing. All the info from drive shaft suppliers [ Spicer etc. ] call it phasing with means the universal yokes must line up when assembled after the slip joint has been dissembled to relace rubber boot or to lube spline. You can google driveline vibrations
and phasing there is some good diagrams and info for lifted vehicles.

I'm not too sure about that, on my 1997 Land Rover Discovery the front prop shaft has two Hardy Spicer Universal Joints, (the rear has a single universal and a "doughnut" ) according to the Works LR Service Manual these universals should be installed at 45 degrees to each other - NOT in line. The manual is quite specific in stating that they should be marked so as not to affect the shaft balance should one, or both universals be replaced. This "alignment" is to reduce shaft vibration and give increased flexibility so I'd guess the Ford tail shaft is just the same, looking at my Wildtrak they are at 45 degrees to each other so my guess is yours is also correctly installed.

saeb wrote: ↑Sun Jan 12, 2020 6:21 pm Been a while and a lot of head banging. Pretty sure I have resolved this.

Notes from late post.

1. Hardy Spicer in Dandenong South were great to deal with onsite but never followed me up with a price and never responded to emails anymore. So f@#k them. Poor customer service annoys me and I do not do second chances.

2. So where so I go from here? Get another tailshaft, grabbed one with 10k on it for $100, damn cheaper than me doing uni's and CB earlier. Outcome, it felt a little better but overtime got worse again.

3. Next, remove cator wedges. Bit better and lived with it for a while.

4. Removed my drawers as I wanted the room again, got worse due to height.

5. Removed one leaf from 300kg pack so brought back to 150kg, back to before removing drawer height and marginally better.

6. Maybe its tyres also. Balanced them, bit better.

7. Put another washer under centre bearing, now at about 8mm drop, about the same.

8. Two weeks went by and then I start to get big vibraitions at 100kph, like back off to resolve and watch things vibrate in the cabin. Could have sworn fron CV or lead fell off the tyre as it felt like front.

9. Another wheel balance, free this time. Still the same.

10. Checked front CV's, undone and re torques main CV wheel nuts (36mm if you need to know) check CV's were located properly. All fine.

11. Still had slight vibration on take off so thought may as well try dropping centre bearing some more (the most I ever have), now at 10 to 12mm drop and holy crap, little if no take off vibration, drive train smooth through to 160kph and no in cabin vibrations.

So moral of the story, if you have a drivetrain, driveshaft vibration. Drop the centre bearing more than you would think it needs!! Remove the castor wedges if you have done them, forget about cardinal joint etc. and try the cheapest option first. I will fine tune this now but thinking around 13mm drop will be about right in my case, once confirmed I will make solid packers and not the crappy washers that come with my kit and life will go on.

Happy days after about 4 years of living with this.

Any chance u can take a picture as to how you set up your spacers in your center bearing area ? This vibration shit is pissing me off hard i need to fix this asap... hope your method works for me too

Basically just keep packing it. Think I have about 20mm of spacers now.

I find it is better with a full tank of fuel and rear shocks can also make a difference. I find it rarely happens with my Fox shocks but with the Old Man Emu still there most of the time.

I want to measure the tailshaft length of a new DMAX, these are running a one piece tailshaft now and if it is the same length and hit nothing then it will be something I will look into.

One piece shaft would simplify the whole shebang for sure, get the diff angle to match the box, phase the unis, job done.