Ranger Mods

Okay I had the "sports bar" and roller shutter replaced with a ARB Ascent canopy - this removed the tub light that is part of the sports bar. The switch, I believe a momentary switch is still on the dash I want to use this switch to operate a LED strip light (2 amps) that I have fitted to the underside of the canopy rear access.

I'm assuming that the harness or cable from the switch to the tub light is still in place under the cabin or even inside it. Can anyone tell me its location and what colour codes the two wires will be if and when I locate it ???

When I had my canopy fitted I asked ARB the same question.

I was told the dash switch won't work any more because the LED Light at the back of the canopy is now using the sports bar plug.

I never questioned this but I often thought that if the light is wired into the original sports bar light, how come I can't turn it on/off from the dash switch.

No idea how ARB do it, but my Flexisport installer ran a separate feed for the interior light in the canopy. I found the original plug, tucked away under the lip in the front left side of the canopy, so I wired in a couple of led lights into the plug, so now I can use the switch on the dash again.

Hi Ian,
If you remove the plastic trim from front of passenger side wheel arch, you will see a loom running up to the headboard. This loom then branches off to 4 wires and a 4 way plug.

If you can feel around hopefully arb will have unplugged this from the sail/sports bar and taped up.

In this plug the 4 wires are as follows :

Violet : cargo lights positive

Black with white stripe: negative for both cargo lights and brake lights

Yellow with grey stripe: high mount brake light positive.
The fourth (can't remember colour) was not in use.

ARB may have taken the feed for canopy brake light from here, or just joined to rear brake lights.



Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Phatallen wrote: ↑Sun Aug 19, 2018 8:31 pm Hi Ian,
If you remove the plastic trim from front of passenger side wheel arch, you will see a loom running up to the headboard. This loom then branches off to 4 wires and a 4 way plug.

If you can feel around hopefully arb will have unplugged this from the sail/sports bar and taped up.

In this plug the 4 wires are as follows :

Violet : cargo lights positive

Black with white stripe: negative for both cargo lights and brake lights

Yellow with grey stripe: high mount brake light positive.
The fourth (can't remember colour) was not in use.

ARB may have taken the feed for canopy brake light from here, or just joined to rear brake lights.



Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Thank you

GerryP wrote: ↑Sun Aug 19, 2018 7:37 pm No idea how ARB do it, but my Flexisport installer ran a separate feed for the interior light in the canopy. I found the original plug, tucked away under the lip in the front left side of the canopy, so I wired in a couple of led lights into the plug, so now I can use the switch on the dash again.

Just had a look, mine is in the same place.
I have cut the plug off the sports bar and attached some twin core wire.
Now to decide what light to install.

Iainboyd wrote: ↑Sun Aug 19, 2018 4:54 pmI want to use this switch to operate a LED strip light (2 amps)

How long is your strip light Ian?

I assume you stick it on.

RossPat wrote: ↑Mon Aug 20, 2018 11:48 am

Iainboyd wrote: ↑Sun Aug 19, 2018 4:54 pmI want to use this switch to operate a LED strip light (2 amps)

How long is your strip light Ian?

I assume you stick it on.

Yes, self adhesive, a fairly expensive one though costing just over $28 for the 1500 long strip, I could have purchased a matching switch for an additional $12.00 with a lead but I though seeing as there was a switch on the dash I would utilise that. According to the instructions when illuminated the strip will draw 1.85 amps which seems about right as I had it illuminated with just jumper leads to see how bright it was and according to the RedArc voltmeter it was pulling 2 amps - it only goes up amps wise in single digits.

Can you tell me where you got it?

RossPat wrote: ↑Mon Aug 20, 2018 2:16 pm Can you tell me where you got it?

BCF - Penrith. Sorry I no longer have the packaging so I'm not able to give you the make etc. but it comes in a length with connectors at each end so that you can extend it by adding a second strip at one end and a switch at the other -- I think you could get a better deal at a 4WD show though

Mine finally got done today and it works.

Now to go buy a light.

Finally got it done today, works a treat.

I don't need the key in the ignition, on/off with a button press.

It is not so easy if you don't have Silent mode enabled.

As the 2 sport's bar lights also came on with all the other lights as Courtesy lights it was harder to control them, they still worked but needed a key.

You had to wait for then to do their courtesy thing.

Yep, I have silent mode enabled and the dash switch is basically on/off, even without the key in.

The sports bar lights (white illumination and high level brake light) all run on the same harness.

Pin #6 on the switch goes to ground when you press it which, in turn grounds pin #8 on the BCM.

The BCM program then decides whether to turn the lights on or off.

The white lights are turned on by the body control module, pin #26

Hi All,

I had the idea to use the factory tub light signal to trigger a relay to bring on my own circuit so I can use lights with decent wattage.
I have this all wired up and connected to a standard relay.

Issue I'm having is the the signal is faded out when the lights go off, cool effect but this fade out causes the relay to chatter which is not ideal and will cause it to fail early not to mention get warm.
Has anyone got any ideas to get around this? Can you get SSR automotive relays? I'd think this would solve the issue..
I haven't looked in forescan for a while but can you stop the fade out? as this would also fix the problem.

If i fail to find a solution for the relay chatter what do you guy think is a safe current to pull from the factory wiring? and has anyone had any adverse effects of using aftermarket lighting off the factory supply (canbus or bcm issues?)

Cheers

Ramp up and down times in milliseconds can be programmed with Forscan.

Do you have Forscan and a dongle?

Hi Stewart,

Yeah I've got a OBD2 MX and forscan, I'll have a look for the ramp up times, any pointers on where I can find them?

Is there a minimum and maximum value?

Use a 12v latching relay.

Sent from my Mi A1 using Tapatalk

doobs wrote: ↑Sat Oct 27, 2018 4:00 am Hi Stewart,

Yeah I've got a OBD2 MX and forscan, I'll have a look for the ramp up times, any pointers on where I can find them?

Is there a minimum and maximum value?

PM me your VIN, I need to see how many locations your BCM has.

Is there a max on time in forscan that will switch off the tub lights if left on?

Im guessing the switch is just momentary, I could put another switch in the tub for local control?

Only ramp up and ramp down times.