Ranger Mods

Here's something to try - Engineering Test Mode

To enter the IPC engineering test mode or dealer test mode, begin with the ignition OFF. Press and hold the RH steering wheel switch OK button. Place the ignition ON and continue to hold the button for 5-8 seconds until the display indicates ET or Gauge Sweep and then release. Press the up or down arrow buttons to navigate through each of the display windows. To exit the IPC dealer test mode, press and hold the OK button for 5-8 seconds or place the ignition in OFF. Each down arrow button press advances the viewing window to the next set of items.

There are quite a lot of interesting screens to check out. Below is just a sample of some of the screens - there are quite a few more.

Click on an image to enlarge...
Initial SCreen - you can see the ET top left corner


Not sure what the "Man Date: 120101" refers to? The car was manufactured in January 2017...???

DTC codes listing - none shown here

The Color Test lights up every single thing on the dash - good to check they're all working I guess

The Anolog Gauge Test drives your speedo all the way to 200 and back again.


Have fun.

Interesting, my Man date was the same, I think its the software build as it looks like a MAC address after it. Anyone know what the AFE bias is? its adjustable up and down. Has some other nice stuff in there like fuel pump pressure and you can start the car and see true idle rpm etc. (bit laggy) but a nice thing to have if there's a problem on the road especially for the DTC's

Manufacture Date/Config Bytes - Lines 720-01-01 & 720-01-02 in asbuilt
RAFE – Running average fuel economy
AFE Bias – Adjustment of the fuel economy calculation ( So by rights you could get DTE to show pretty accurate if you are running larger tyres )

Date as said is probably the base software build as these IPC's were used the Foccus years ago with different calibration files etc. I will have a look in the eeprom I read from the IPC the other day and compare to a euro IPC. The eeprom holds the odometer value and asbuilt data though it has an algorithm so is basically unreadable.

Been measuring the fuel economy for the last year and its consistently out by 0.2L/ 100km so played with the fuel Bias tonight and set it to 1200 (which is the max possible) I am hoping that 1000 is = to 1L and that the new setting will mean to read it as 1.2L which means my economy figure should read spot on against actual fuel use now, will report back after a couple of tanks, i.e a month or so.

Be interesting to hear the outcome and I would also make the assumption that 1200 is 1.2

So an update on modifying the Fuel Bias Ratio, it seems my assumption to change the value from 1000 to 1200 so that it would increase the economy reading by 0.2 was incorrect.

In fact what seems to have happened is that it decreased consumption measurement by about 2.0

Just filled up and the values go like this, 135.06L consumed for 1348.0Kms = 10.01L/100km, Ranger software told me I used 8.1L/100km. By the way these are particularly high fuel usage figures for me, I have been pedaling pretty hard the last week and a half as work has been fully hectic bro, I normally sit between 9.2 and 9.6L/100km.

So I have now changed the Fuel Bias Ratio to 980, hopefully should have some new figures in about two weeks so we can see if I am on the right path. Don't you just love experiments I need to start listening to Doctor Karl again for more inspiration

Maybe we should have this info on its own thread? if you think it should be, then feel free to move it Saeb.

Great work Michael. If you get to the bottom of it let me know and possibly we can look at a new thread. Not sure what thread or forum (ideas).

I will try and get a change to check on other bias options in the IPC and BCM as there are others but I have just been looking past them lately.

Going through tanks like crazy at the moment! nearly $1k in fuel on this car alone last month

Anyway today's tank figures, 134.2L fuel for 1256.2Kms = an actual figure of 10.68L/100km, Ranger software told me 10.7L/100kms. seems I am getting close, if not bang on by the time you take in to account slight variances in fill height. I always try to fill right up to the neck but the long range tanks can get a bubble sometimes and you might loose up to 0.3L on a fill.

As mentioned in the previous post, my offset is now 980, I will monitor the next tank and see if it gets any more or less accurate, the problem is I am doing a lot of towing on long round trips at the moment so not my usual driving. really want to see what I get normally, but pretty happy with that accuracy today.

Did a half tank last week, ECU told me 10.3L/100kms. Fuel used 74.59L, kms traveled 720.6 = 10.35. That's close enough for me.

So to get your fuel ratio right, for every 0.1L real use you are over the ECU specified use, reduce the offset by 10 points, and vice versa. testing completed

06/05/18 EDIT: one more set of figures for reference, 135.75L, 1445.6Kms, ECU says 9.4L/100, actual is 9.39L/100

is it possible to get into a version of the engineering mode on a XLS ???

I wouldn't mind trying to correct my DTE a little more accurate

Fireguard wrote: ↑Sun Apr 22, 2018 3:38 am is it possible to get into a version of the engineering mode on a XLS ???

I wouldn't mind trying to correct my DTE a little more accurate

Should be the same process, I assume the XLS has the steering control D switches?

ira11y wrote: ↑Sun Apr 22, 2018 4:38 pm

Fireguard wrote: ↑Sun Apr 22, 2018 3:38 am is it possible to get into a version of the engineering mode on a XLS ???

I wouldn't mind trying to correct my DTE a little more accurate

Should be the same process, I assume the XLS has the steering control D switches?

Yes my XLS does have the steering wheel control - but I've just tried again and couldn't get it to work

Interesting, I would have thought it was a generic access for all versions. any one else with an XLS want to give it a go?

I played around with my 20165 BT50 and got into some kind of engineering mode via the OK-button of the radio.
Not too many options but beside some tests of the small screen and the LED's in the center console it will also show DTC codes (none right now) and the hours traveled (I assume).
Might come handy one day.
Same way to access: press ok at the radio with igition off for a few seconds, turn the the ignition on and off we go.
Cheers

Fireguard wrote: ↑Mon Apr 23, 2018 2:57 pm

ira11y wrote: ↑Sun Apr 22, 2018 4:38 pm

Fireguard wrote: ↑Sun Apr 22, 2018 3:38 am is it possible to get into a version of the engineering mode on a XLS ???

I wouldn't mind trying to correct my DTE a little more accurate

Should be the same process, I assume the XLS has the steering control D switches?

Yes my XLS does have the steering wheel control - but I've just tried again and couldn't get it to work

UPDATE:
I managed to get the engine test menu to work on my XLS Ranger.

Press and hold the RIGHT side OK button then turn the ignition on whilst still holding the button
Whilst still holding the OK button wait until the dash does its cycle thing then once the airbag light goes out then release and immediately repress the Right side OK button..

Hey Rob,

You have done well. I have tried a few different button combinations without success , untill I tried your suggested method.
I am pleased to confirm that Rob has solved this mystery for owner's of XLS Rangers.
Thanks again.

Tony.

ira11y wrote: ↑Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:58 pm So an update on modifying the Fuel Bias Ratio, it seems my assumption to change the value from 1000 to 1200 so that it would increase the economy reading by 0.2 was incorrect.

In fact what seems to have happened is that it decreased consumption measurement by about 2.0

Just filled up and the values go like this, 135.06L consumed for 1348.0Kms = 10.01L/100km, Ranger software told me I used 8.1L/100km. By the way these are particularly high fuel usage figures for me, I have been pedaling pretty hard the last week and a half as work has been fully hectic bro, I normally sit between 9.2 and 9.6L/100km.

So I have now changed the Fuel Bias Ratio to 980, hopefully should have some new figures in about two weeks so we can see if I am on the right path. Don't you just love experiments I need to start listening to Doctor Karl again for more inspiration

Maybe we should have this info on its own thread? if you think it should be, then feel free to move it Saeb.

Thought I would look at this. I may have found a quick easy way.

Fill tank.
Clear your AVG L/100
Use tank and do your real calulations. I use "Simply Auto" for my fuel logs.
Compare to what the cluster says.
Go into test mode and move the bias so it matches you real calculations.
The AVG will change when key off key on so just repeat until it matches.

Repeat and check.

It just means sitting at the servo for an extra few minutes.

Yeah I do that every tank, its basically what I used to adjust the accuracy. It will give the same reading as the cluster if you zero every fill.

A follow up from last fill up.

At last fill up I made the change to 1030 which made my calculations and the average fuel economy match.

It has been about a month since my last refill but today I filled the tank and my afe matched the manual calculation 100%. This was a combination of city and country driving and shows the savings in fuel with the Unichip are reasonably linear.

Hi guys,

Reviving an old thread with my observations...
I wanted to correct my consumption as it is also off. Same fill procedure every time, standard Tyres.

What I found is that the AFE Bias adjusts the resulting numeric value of the consumption.
If you decrease the AFE number the numeric value of the consumption regardless of the units of measure, go up.
Decrease of AFE the result goes up.

I like my consumption displayed in km/l but based on the above thread I changed my display to l/100 for convenience.
(for every 0.1l/100 increase on display reduce AFE by 10)

I then went and adjusted the AFE down to 970 as my consumption was displaying 8.1/100 but calculated was 8.4l/100.
This worked fine. Display then showed 8.4l/100.

I then changed my display back to my preferred units and that was now incorrect.
Instead of a reduced km/l value (as it should be for an increase in l/100), the km/l value had increased from 12.3km/l (8.1l/100) to 12.6km/l (7.94l/100)!! A great improvement in consumption just by changing the units...

I then left the units at km/l and adjusted AFE to so that the display indicated 11.9km/l which is the correct equivalent of the 8.4l/100 I had set earlier.
AFE Bias for this = 1030
And then, just to check, i went back and changed the units to l/100 and guess what?
The displayed consumption was now 7.8l/100 which is equivalent 12.8km/l not the 11.9km/l that was just seen!!

This means you can only calibrate on one unit of measure. The display adjusts the consumption result not the source data.
This AFE should be adjusting the fuel used value used in the calculation not the result. This is why I can't change my displayed units now.
If AFE is at default no change is made and I can switch between the different units with the correct results displayed.
Poorly done by the Ford engineers.

Has another, better way been found to correct the consumption?

I have the 2017 2.2 XLS, so my instrument cluster has the analog speedo and rev counter...

Change your tyres sizes is the only 100% way to be exact. I'm only running 32inch tyres but my average over 140 litres is now within .3 of the manually calculated value with AFE standard.

I recently cleared out all learned data so my DTE did show 1999 for 3 days but is now basically perfect.

How does one clear out all learned data?
Is that the Reset module option in Forscan?
If so, which modules?
I have reset a few already in an attempt to get the rpm's to drop quicker. The rev matching function on the manual is ok,
It does, however, take an eternity to drop the revs to the rev matching point so on a hill pull away you end up back at idle going from 1st to 2nd gear!
Any ideas for that?

NathanSA wrote: ↑Thu Apr 04, 2019 11:21 pm How does one clear out all learned data?
Is that the Reset module option in Forscan?
If so, which modules?
I have reset a few already in an attempt to get the rpm's to drop quicker. The rev matching function on the manual is ok,
It does, however, take an eternity to drop the revs to the rev matching point so on a hill pull away you end up back at idle going from 1st to 2nd gear!
Any ideas for that?

A reset will not clear learned data.

For cluster clear I do it programmably but the same can be achieve by removing the battery terminal for 30 minutes should be sufficient, which I confirm last week. DTE can nearly take a tank to get back to where it should be though.

Should the battery disconnect be done on a full tank then, to give the system a full tank reference level?

Makes no difference, it will still take awhile to relearn whichever way. Mine is still playing catch up after using 90 litres and may take until another refill.