Ranger Mods

Hi

I’ve had nothing but constant trouble with the ranger smart alternator killing batteries.
https://saeb.net/viewtopic.php?t=6676
So wanting to go old school with a non smart alternator. Am I right in thinking that a BT-50 alternator will bolt straight up to my 3.2L px1? And will give a constant ~14v output ?
Anyone done this already?

I’ve read the bt-50 alternators didn’t have smart charge so wondering if this option may work.

Cheers John

Maybe just remove the BMS sensor on the negative battery terminal if it has one.

I have no knowledge of the BT-50 alternator so cannot advise.

Trouble is the BCM still uses it even when removed or set as no BMS sensor in Forscan on the px1. I’ve had a lot issues over about 12 months. Replaced alternator batteries etc. I’ve always had it set as no BMS sensor in Forscan for dual batteries.
Today I set it back to enable the BMS sensor and its throwing the DTC code that the BMS sensor is bad and now showing battery light on the dash. I’m convinced that’s been my problem with low voltages. I think even with no BMS sensor set in Forscan the BCM still uses it somehow so it needs to be there and fully functional I.e. it cannot simply be removed.
Anyway I’ve read that the Mazda bt-50 with the 3.2L never had smart alternators so hence thinking it’s worth giving one a shot as I,d love an old school alternator continuously putting out 14v .

If anyone has done this I’d love to hear from them.

Topgear wrote: ↑Mon Apr 18, 2022 3:04 pm Trouble is the BCM still uses it even when removed or set as no BMS sensor in Forscan on the px1. I’ve had a lot issues over about 12 months. Replaced alternator batteries etc. I’ve always had it set as no BMS sensor in Forscan for dual batteries.
Today I set it back to enable the BMS sensor and its throwing the DTC code that the BMS sensor is bad and now showing battery light on the dash. I’m convinced that’s been my problem with low voltages. I think even with no BMS sensor set in Forscan the BCM still uses it somehow so it needs to be there and fully functional I.e. it cannot simply be removed.
Anyway I’ve read that the Mazda bt-50 with the 3.2L never had smart alternators so hence thinking it’s worth giving one a shot as I,d love an old school alternator continuously putting out 14v .

If anyone has done this I’d love to hear from them.

I am running a 2015 BT50 with Lithium batteries (both, starter and accessories)since 3 years on the original alternator
It gives me usually well above 14.2V, (recommended minimum Voltage to charge my Lithium batteries)
Voltage drops at high ambient temperature to 14V to 14.1V but still keeps the Lithium batteries reliably charged.

The original lead starter battery was three years old when I replaced it with the Lithium battery and is still doing its job in another car.
Seems like the BT50 old-school charging system is doing its job ok

I have by no means the detailed knowledge to confirm but one would think it can not be too hard to use and make it work on a Ranger

Cheers
Mike

Well tried it but it didn't work. Same alternator as what's in my XLT PX1. Both seem to be single wire alternators. I've tried putting 12v on the input wire but it doesn't seem to work. Must be a square wave signal or something to control the alternator output as they still give variable voltage.
I actually think my problem might be with my BCM. I've replaced the alternator and battery sensor but get a U1007 - Lost communication with battery monitoring Sensor A DTC + battery light on dash when set to smart alternator mode. Change to no battery sensor mode and the trouble code goes away and light on dash as well but I still get variable charging voltages.

What's interesting is that in Forscan it shows a C_Volt (Charging voltage) of 14.80V yet the VPWR, V (battery voltage) is jumping around but under 12.5V.
On many drives it will drop down under 12v.

Anyway looks like even though the battery sensor is disabled, if its not working it causes issues for the alternator. So expecting my BCM could be cactus. Will let people know if I ever find a solution!

Plausible or the wire between the BMS and BCM is damaged.

saeb wrote: ↑Thu May 05, 2022 5:10 pm Plausible or the wire between the BMS and BCM is damaged.

Do you know where this is located in the BCM? There are a number of white wires which enter the BCM so hard to identify which one and the Haynes manual wiring diagrams aren't much help.

Will look and advise.PM me a VIN please.

Few notes.

1. Check BMS sensor Fuse 30 in the engine bay. Test, do not visualise.
2. White wire from BMS pin 2 to BCM connector C2280A pin 42. Check for continuity and any short to ground.
3. Image is of the face of connector.

Good luck.

Thank you!

Any idea how connector C2208A unconnects? Looks like some kind of pivot lock but can’t work it out .

Topgear wrote: ↑Thu May 05, 2022 8:44 pm Thank you!

Any idea how connector C2208A unconnects? Looks like some kind of pivot lock but can’t work it out .

Most are usually push tab down behind locking arm then lift arm.

Answer to above - push little side tabs in with fingers/small screw driver and lift lever up!

saeb wrote: ↑Thu May 05, 2022 7:23 pm Few notes.

2. White wire from BMS pin 2 to BCM connector C2280A pin 42. Check for continuity and any short to ground.

Good luck.

Well that’s my problem! No continuity.
Now just run a new wire or try and find break in existing wiring. New wire looks easiest

It would be best to find where the damage is. There may be something rubbing on the loom that could damage other wires later on.

Rodent damage is always possible.

Couldn’t find any easily identifiable damage so ran a new wire as I didn’t want to go pulling the wiring harness apart. Now getting sensed battery current in Forscan so fixed that problem.
However battery current is at best positive 1-2amps at idle and with lights on negative 2-3 amps and still showing low battery voltages. I think about the only thing left is the BCM so will book it into ford and see what they say.

Maybe check VDC46 LIN wire from alternator to PCM also then.

The vdc46 line does put out a voltage at the alternator plug. I think it was 7v when I checked so thought this was ok, but that could be it. I get the impression it’s a square wave to dictate alternator/ current output but I’m not sure. Do you know which of the three plugs in the ECM vdc46 comes from?

Out out you see is LIN so what you see is correct. When I have some time, I will look up the plug.

Thanks Stewart

Bit of an update - learning more as I go! The single vdc46 wire that goes to the alternator controls it’s output by varying the voltage between 7-9v. I don’t think it’s a square wave like I mentioned above just a voltage range between 7-9v. Higher voltage on this lines feeds more amps to the battery. I’ve now measured at various alternator output and it varys between 7-9v most of the time.
I’ve been watching my battery amps and on startup it could be over a - hundred amp draw it will then go to + 20 amps and slowly work down to + 4-5 amps. This will keep the battery around 13.5v which is as I think it should be.
The issue I seem to have is that sometimes I will be having a -5 to -8 amp draw on the battery after the startup phase and the alternator doesn’t seem to kick in. If i see this happening I can stop the ute restart and sometimes it will work as it should and keep + 4-5 amps feed into the battery.
If I keep driving when it’s pulling -5 to -8 amps it will actually drop the battery voltage to below 12v and it will only just kick over. Head scratching on why sometimes it seems to behave as expected and other times not. It’s a brand new ford alternator.
It could be that the vdc46 wire is damaged. It goes across the front of the motor in the harness that is known to rub but I couldn’t see any external damage and I do get voltage output on this line at the alternator.
Anyway I’ll keep investigating and hopefully find something concrete.

OK two example datasets of battery voltages and charging amps during a 10-15 minute drive. Ute had been sitting all day. A quick run into town. Notice everything starts off nicely then charging amps fall away. At end of trip battery is only just at 12v. Its pulling - 10-15 amps off and you can see it dropping battery voltage! SOC% on the right axis drops away all trip. Longer trip and it will be pushing to start the ute sometimes.
A few restarts showing at the end of trip, which are the peaks in amps after starting.
Approximately 1 hour later same trip into town. This time everything behaves as it should. A good amp feed into the battery and SOC% increases during the trip.
Has me scratching my head.

Second Issue found! Thanks to local Ford guys this time.

Well looks like it was an issue with the earth strap from engine to chassis causing the issue. I’d checked and replaced the battery earth but not the engine to chassis earth.
I’ll keep an eye on it but it does look like this was the problem.

So in summary 2 issues. Battery sensor to BCM wire needed replacing and earth strap between engine and chassis.

The hardest ptoblems sometimes have the easiest solutions! Great outcome

Yes awesome information from Stewart and now knowing how it all works. Very difficult to find the information provide in the thread above. Hopefully helps someone else in future.

Good outcome and makes sense.

Enjoy your revised battery life.