Boydie wrote: ↑Sun Sep 24, 2023 10:42 am
NathanSA wrote: ↑Fri Sep 22, 2023 4:44 pm
Hi
Does anyone know the actual torque specs for the three crankshaft pulley bolts?
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Have fun out there and remember Ford NEVER intended you to change this seal when the engine was in the car, short of oil changes the Ford manual should always begin with "First remove the engine from the vehicle " !!
Thanks for the reply. I did the job on Friday/Saturday.
I couldn't stop the crank turning when trying to undue the bolts with my 61cm power bar.
I found the easiest was for me to just drain some coolant so i could pull the top hose and remove the fan shroud.
Then removed the visco fan assembly (three bolts) to give space.
This allowed me to fit my cordless impact wrench in the space. Bolts came loose fairly quickly with no turning of the crank.
A trick that may aid in not rounding the bolts is to grind away the guide taper section on the socket. As the bolt heads are not that deep/tall not alot of the socket edges actually contact the bolt head.
By grinding the taper off i had 100% bolt head contacted by the socket sides as it sat deeper in the actual "working surface" of the socket.
I also only use 6 sided sockets for jobs like this.
I could see damage done by the Ford workshop already where they slipped off of the bolt heads.
The seal came out easily enough but the annoyance i faced was the use of silicone done by Ford when they were meant to replace the seal when the vehicle was just off the showroom floor! Instead of a new seal they reused the leaking one and put silicone all over the seal mating face with the timing cover. I could see the seal had imperfections on it.
This meant i had to try remove this while preventing the bits from falling into the timing cover cavity. Not easy as one is bending over trying reach from the top and then reaching up from underneath!
Why do you suggest the use of sealant there? The workshop manual doesn't suggest this.
The hassle cleaning it off if seal needs replacing is a PITA. If mine ends up leaking by the seal/timing cover interface due to some imperfection in the cover i will resort to the use of sealant though...
I may need to replace again further down the line (if i have it for another few years) as the crank seal surface has a burr mark/damage from a tool which is likely why it leaked now at 85000km.
If the seal lasts that many kilo's again i will be happy.
Tightening the crank pulley up again was fairly easy. The 3 torque stages and the 45degree worked well in that trying to do a 120degree in one continuous movement is not possible.
Had the vehicle in 5th gear, handbrake on and marked the start and end points for the 45 degree rotation and used the power bar with no issues.
Just had someone help keep the socket pressed firmly onto the bolt heads while i tightened.
For the tensioner and 6mm dowel issue you raised: my old power bar had a square shaped head by the swivel (Gedore) and didn't fit.
The new one i bought for this job (Ampro) has a round head which fit in-between the two pulleys no problem.
Then i just had to feel for the 6mm hole and stuck the a bolt in.