Ranger Mods

Hi

Does anyone know the actual torque specs for the three crankshaft pulley bolts?
This is for the 2017 2.2 and doesn’t have rubber damper.
The Ford workshop manual I have seen for PX2 has two very different values given in two separate repair sections.

One section on replacing the crank seal states:
Stage 1: 45Nm
Stage 2: 120 degree

Other section for engine assembly:
Stage 1: 20Nm,
Stage 2: 45Nm,
Stage 3: 90Nm,
Stage 4: 45 degree

The equivalent sections for the 3.2 both have 5 stages of torque; the first 4 described above plus and extra 45 degree turn.

I need to replace the front crank seal as it is leaking quite a bit.

Any tips for removing the bolts without the special tool?

NathanSA wrote: ↑Fri Sep 22, 2023 4:44 pm Hi

Does anyone know the actual torque specs for the three crankshaft pulley bolts?
This is for the 2017 2.2 and doesn’t have rubber damper.
The Ford workshop manual I have seen for PX2 has two very different values given in two separate repair sections.

One section on replacing the crank seal states:
Stage 1: 45Nm
Stage 2: 120 degree

Other section for engine assembly:
Stage 1: 20Nm,
Stage 2: 45Nm,
Stage 3: 90Nm,
Stage 4: 45 degree

The equivalent sections for the 3.2 both have 5 stages of torque; the first 4 described above plus and extra 45 degree turn.

I need to replace the front crank seal as it is leaking quite a bit.

Any tips for removing the bolts without the special tool?

Seeing as I've been through this just recenty --- !!!!!
The 4 stage second set of torque figures is correct, secondly good luck in getting the three bolts out without the special tool. You can order and buy one from Repco for $98 or, if you live locally to me ( Post Code NSW 2784 ), you can borrow mine, you will also need a long reach socket, on the 3.2 this is a 15mm hex head.
On mine the three bolts were in so tight that I had no option but to weld a 15mm socket to each bolt as they became rounded trying to undo them !!
Another option would be to remove the radiator, air conditioning condenser and the intercooler and grille and use a bloody big pneumatic hammer drill to undo them. I simply just groaned and cried, remember though that I'm 75 years old with titanium rods holding my spine together and I have torn tendons in my right elbow. It wasnt fun.
By the way, on another tangent if you can work out how you use a breaker bar to untension the two idler rollers on the serpentione belt AND then fit a 6mm drill in the hole to lock them from moving in the available space, even with the radiator removed, please tell me how you did it.
A three leg puller is handy as you can put three 6mm bolts in one to coinside with the three indentations in the old and the new crankshaft oil seal so that you can unscrew the old seal and screw in the new one, at over $100 a seal you dont want to damage the new one !!!
Let me know if you need anything if you are local to me.
Have fun out there and remember Ford NEVER intended you to change this seal when the engine was in the car, short of oil changes the Ford manual should always begin with "First remove the engine from the vehicle " !!

One other thing, use some Locktite Aviation gasket sealer MR 5923 (non-hardening) on the flange of the new seal so that its sealed in the timing case cover. Do not get it on the actual seal

Yours is a 3.2 where his is a 2.2
They may be different

RossPat wrote: ↑Sun Sep 24, 2023 11:13 am Yours is a 3.2 where his is a 2.2
They may be different

They are, well, sort of, torque wise as he says the 3.2 requires an additional 45 degree torque turn over the 2.2 but other than that the three crank bolts are a common size in diameter and hex head size - they may be shorter on the 2.2 crank but otherwise they are identical.
I had to replace all three bolts on mine as, in order to unscrew them, I ended up having to weld three 15mm hex head sockets to them.

Boydie wrote: ↑Sun Sep 24, 2023 10:42 am

NathanSA wrote: ↑Fri Sep 22, 2023 4:44 pm Hi

Does anyone know the actual torque specs for the three crankshaft pulley bolts?

...........
Have fun out there and remember Ford NEVER intended you to change this seal when the engine was in the car, short of oil changes the Ford manual should always begin with "First remove the engine from the vehicle " !!

Thanks for the reply. I did the job on Friday/Saturday.

I couldn't stop the crank turning when trying to undue the bolts with my 61cm power bar.
I found the easiest was for me to just drain some coolant so i could pull the top hose and remove the fan shroud.
Then removed the visco fan assembly (three bolts) to give space.
This allowed me to fit my cordless impact wrench in the space. Bolts came loose fairly quickly with no turning of the crank.
A trick that may aid in not rounding the bolts is to grind away the guide taper section on the socket. As the bolt heads are not that deep/tall not alot of the socket edges actually contact the bolt head.
By grinding the taper off i had 100% bolt head contacted by the socket sides as it sat deeper in the actual "working surface" of the socket.
I also only use 6 sided sockets for jobs like this.
I could see damage done by the Ford workshop already where they slipped off of the bolt heads.

The seal came out easily enough but the annoyance i faced was the use of silicone done by Ford when they were meant to replace the seal when the vehicle was just off the showroom floor! Instead of a new seal they reused the leaking one and put silicone all over the seal mating face with the timing cover. I could see the seal had imperfections on it.
This meant i had to try remove this while preventing the bits from falling into the timing cover cavity. Not easy as one is bending over trying reach from the top and then reaching up from underneath!

Why do you suggest the use of sealant there? The workshop manual doesn't suggest this.
The hassle cleaning it off if seal needs replacing is a PITA. If mine ends up leaking by the seal/timing cover interface due to some imperfection in the cover i will resort to the use of sealant though...
I may need to replace again further down the line (if i have it for another few years) as the crank seal surface has a burr mark/damage from a tool which is likely why it leaked now at 85000km.
If the seal lasts that many kilo's again i will be happy.

Tightening the crank pulley up again was fairly easy. The 3 torque stages and the 45degree worked well in that trying to do a 120degree in one continuous movement is not possible.
Had the vehicle in 5th gear, handbrake on and marked the start and end points for the 45 degree rotation and used the power bar with no issues.
Just had someone help keep the socket pressed firmly onto the bolt heads while i tightened.

For the tensioner and 6mm dowel issue you raised: my old power bar had a square shaped head by the swivel (Gedore) and didn't fit.
The new one i bought for this job (Ampro) has a round head which fit in-between the two pulleys no problem.
Then i just had to feel for the 6mm hole and stuck the a bolt in.

You did well !!
I tried using a pneumatic hammer to undo the three bolts on my crank and it didnt come close to removing them, I was of the opinion that Ford employ a silver-back mountain gorilla with a 2 metre long breaker bar to tighten them up.
The heads rounded off so I welded three old 15mm sockets to the heads.
I use the Locktite non-hardening gasket sealer on all metal to plastic face joints that dont have a gasket due to their different contracting and expanding rates, I used to experience some leaks but with the Locktite I've not had any so I swear by it. Cleaning it off is easy, just use a rag soaked in acetate.
For the tensioner I used an old 1/2" square 2" long extension and ground the spring loaded ball off the male end, this slotted easily into the square socket of the tensioner assembly and I then fitted my breaker bar onto it to release the serpentine belt but there was no way on my 3.2 engine that I could get my other hand down in the limited available space to slot a 6mm drill in the hole.
Again, well done you !

Boydie wrote: ↑Wed Sep 27, 2023 8:51 am You did well !!
I tried using a pneumatic hammer to undo the three bolts on my crank and it didnt come close to removing them, I was of the opinion that Ford employ a silver-back mountain gorilla with a 2 metre long breaker bar to tighten them up.
The heads rounded off so I welded three old 15mm sockets to the heads.
I use the Locktite non-hardening gasket sealer on all metal to plastic face joints that dont have a gasket due to their different contracting and expanding rates, I used to experience some leaks but with the Locktite I've not had any so I swear by it. Cleaning it off is easy, just use a rag soaked in acetate.
For the tensioner I used an old 1/2" square 2" long extension and ground the spring loaded ball off the male end, this slotted easily into the square socket of the tensioner assembly and I then fitted my breaker bar onto it to release the serpentine belt but there was no way on my 3.2 engine that I could get my other hand down in the limited available space to slot a 6mm drill in the hole.
Again, well done you !

Thanks!
Half the "fun" is figuring out how to get things done with the available tools!

I'll look into that sealant then. Sounds good. Does it dissolve or come off in bits?
What the Ford guys used appeared to be normal sealant and came off in bits which is why I had to stuff the cavity with a cloth so the bits wouldn't fall in!

NathanSA wrote: ↑Wed Sep 27, 2023 5:16 pm
I'll look into that sealant then. Sounds good. Does it dissolve or come off in bits?
What the Ford guys used appeared to be normal sealant and came off in bits which is why I had to stuff the cavity with a cloth so the bits wouldn't fall in!

Yeah, Ford don't use Locktite - thats just me and my experience with other engines where the sealant needs to remain super flexible and non-hardening for ease of possible removal at a later time and for the most part yes, it just disolves by wiping it with a rag well soaked in acetate.