Ranger Mods

RossPat wrote: ↑Mon Oct 15, 2018 11:16 am I am thinking that battery quality is making all the difference.

I'm seeing similar results with my new non Ford Battery.

I take it the reason I am having so much trouble with turning off DBM and not seeing the above picture is because mine is not a PXii it is a PXi. I turned off the battery monitor and it seams to work. Do you know if this is the right thing to do in my model or could it be why I am getting the codes I listed above. Still can not get rid of them and putting back to factory does not help.

I am not sure if your model has a Smart generator, but if you wait a while I am sure Stewart will be along and answer all your questions.

glennkirw wrote: ↑Thu Oct 18, 2018 11:04 am I take it the reason I am having so much trouble with turning off DBM and not seeing the above picture is because mine is not a PXii it is a PXi. I turned off the battery monitor and it seams to work. Do you know if this is the right thing to do in my model or could it be why I am getting the codes I listed above. Still can not get rid of them and putting back to factory does not help.

Battery Monitor Sensor is correct for a PX1. Have never seen the other errors come up and have never tried changed the other parameters that you have.

I did have an Escape that uses the same programming the other day crack the sads on ABS when I disabled stop/start though.

Are you sure you have not tried to make some manual asbuilt changes somewhere? Save your BCMii asbuilt and PM it too me along with your VIN.

So I decided to stick my battery on the ctek charger. It was at 78% on the scangauge, and was showing about 3/4 full on the ctek. After about 5hrs charge, it went through it’s full cycle and was showing full charge on the ctek which showed 83% on the scangauge. I am still running single battery (normal) mode.

Do you have an OEM battery?

It can also take 12 hours of not turning the key for everything to settle. There was a document I read but unfortunately forgot to take a copy.

FYI, I have never seen 100% on the original or aftermarket, although I run a second battery and I'm sure it pulls some out of the front while sitting.

Yep, running the stock battery. 18 months old 26,000kms

Tezza wrote: ↑Sat Oct 20, 2018 10:01 pm Yep, running the stock battery. 18 months old 26,000kms

From my experience you won't do any better on a stock battery, even in DBM.

If you check it again in a few hours my guess will be that it will not hold a high charge for long.

I didn't see 100% until I fitted a quality battery.

What’s the best battery to look into then to replace the stock unit?
While the stock one is probably fine for now, I am planning a 3 months trip off grid towing a van next year and want to make sure the battery is in A1 shape.

Tezza wrote: ↑Sun Oct 21, 2018 12:48 am What’s the best battery to look into then to replace the stock unit?
While the stock one is probably fine for now, I am planning a 3 months trip off grid towing a van next year and want to make sure the battery is in A1 shape.

This is the battery I have https://superstart.com.au/ss75ti-high-p ... ttery.html

There are other good batteries around so I am not saying this is the best.

Some say AGM takes heat better than a GEL battery, others say the opposite so it gets a bit confusing.

Thanks for the link....

So interesting, I just checked the charge state of the battery on scangauge and it is showing 88%.
This is after sitting locked in the driveway for the last 14hrs.

Mine drops from 100% to 90% after 7 days and then drops slowly after that.

Never seen it below 83%

Fro what I read the BMS will do a relearn after a pre longed resting period. Another way that is meant to achieve the same thing is the relearn procedure for replacing the battery in IDS or Forscan.

Ross, being an AGM battery the assumption is it has a higher resting voltage than the Calcium batteries and is why you see higher figures. That is all I can bring it down to anyway.

So this morning when I went out after the car being parked all night, the scangauge was showing 72%. I only did about 10km each way today (20km total) and it was showing 74% when I got home.

Will be interesting to see what it is on tomorrow morning

good info i see aftermarket battery in my future. (if i do i want more a/h and maybe dual deep/start)
I have had flat batteries from an hour of ignition on with radio and when setting up dual battery and testing cable continuity and voltage drops the main battery would always be around the 12.2-12.5 so obviously never fully charging.

my second battery is not a permanent placement in tub 24/7 but it has its own bcdc so guessing battery charge % wont be effected much as long as it activates when car is running? think it was 12.8v activation.

for single battery would setting mode to 16v be dangerous as overcharging battery over 15v would fry it?
whats the max voltage the factory battery should be maxed at? 80% would that still require a higher Forscan setting to get to that voltage SOC.

will go searching but any known Obdlink SOC gauge PIDs?

cheers

Look here viewtopic.php?f=57&t=1461 for Battery Percentage

RossPat wrote: ↑Sun Oct 21, 2018 8:38 am

Tezza wrote: ↑Sun Oct 21, 2018 12:48 am What’s the best battery to look into then to replace the stock unit?
While the stock one is probably fine for now, I am planning a 3 months trip off grid towing a van next year and want to make sure the battery is in A1 shape.

This is the battery I have https://superstart.com.au/ss75ti-high-p ... ttery.html

There are other good batteries around so I am not saying this is the best.

Some say AGM takes heat better than a GEL battery, others say the opposite so it gets a bit confusing.

how did you go with the swap over, my standard setup has a large fuse holder/terminal setup and might only fit onto certain terminal posts?

Mine fitted straight in and even though it is taller that the OEM battery I had no issues.

Some have to modify the battery cradle.

I have been told the cradle in a manual is shorter in length than an auto.

Whether it is or not I don't know.

Would be so good if there was a battery voltage reading to be enabled in the dash, as you get on boats and in other vehicles etc.

Brente1982 wrote: ↑Thu Nov 29, 2018 8:41 pm Would be so good if there was a battery voltage reading to be enabled in the dash, as you get on boats and in other vehicles etc.

Agreed, unfortunately it does not exist.

If I have my way then maybe it will, one day.

Brente1982 wrote: ↑Thu Nov 29, 2018 8:41 pm Would be so good if there was a battery voltage reading to be enabled in the dash, as you get on boats and in other vehicles etc.

if you have a oblink installed for Forscan changes than just get the app on the phone.

if not just buy a cigarette plug volt meter

RossPat wrote: ↑Thu Nov 15, 2018 11:33 pm Mine fitted straight in and even though it is taller that the OEM battery I had no issues.

Some have to modify the battery cradle.

I have been told the cradle in a manual is shorter in length than an auto.

Whether it is or not I don't know.

is it higher dimension because it has more A/h storage?

have seen some mention of some Ranger forum members having failures with this brand how old is your one now?

subzero747 wrote: ↑Sun May 26, 2019 10:24 am

RossPat wrote: ↑Thu Nov 15, 2018 11:33 pm Mine fitted straight in and even though it is taller that the OEM battery I had no issues.

Some have to modify the battery cradle.

I have been told the cradle in a manual is shorter in length than an auto.

Whether it is or not I don't know.

is it higher dimension because it has more A/h storage?

have seen some mention of some Ranger forum members having failures with this brand how old is your one now?

I have seen mention of failures with all brands.

There are so many batteries on the market now and pricing is competitive.

With competitive pricing comes quality short cuts, and China leads in that field.