Ranger Mods

I have had the option to change the dual battery mode with options, this is a better implementation of what I had tested before that never saw daylight as I pulled it before release.

Basically the old enable or disable dual battery mode option will be removed and a new option for Dual Battery Mode (Target State of Charge) will be added.

Please see attached picture of what we have implemented. All changes are within the safe factory ranges so for those that want a little extra customisation, here you go.

This should hit the next beta build of Forscan.

I'm not sure if my understanding is wrong or not, using my car setup (second battery's in the tray running on a redarc BCDC (the LV 40amp version) with dual battery mode currently OFF). everything should run perfectly fine, and I don't really need DB mode on......

Here's my dumb question - so please be gentle....
What would I actually gain by turning DB mode on, and why would I select a 'partial enabled' amount (say 90% 14.4V) ???

I am no expert but in Smart mode the maximum % the battery will charge to is 12.2 volts or 50% charged.

In smart mode the alternator doesn't start charging until the battery drops to around 12 volts then it doesn't charge much before it stops charging so the battery is not really in a good state of charge.

I have DBM enabled and I have 1 battery, now it charges to around 85% @ 14.8 to 15v, so if I have trouble starting the engine the extra capacity may help.

Like I said, I am no expert but I am sure one of the more knowledgeable guys will explain it better.

I would be getting your current battery load tested.

My original lasted 2.5 years with some pretty average numbers towards the end.

New battery resting voltage is 12.6 and I have seen 96% SOC in DBM. I only drive 20km each way a day.

Personally I think your battery is stuffed but a load test will give you an answer. Your local battery place or auto elect will check it for you.

Fireguard wrote: ↑Fri May 11, 2018 1:30 pm I'm not sure if my understanding is wrong or not, using my car setup (second battery's in the tray running on a redarc BCDC (the LV 40amp version) with dual battery mode currently OFF). everything should run perfectly fine, and I don't really need DB mode on......

Here's my dumb question - so please be gentle....
What would I actually gain by turning DB mode on, and why would I select a 'partial enabled' amount (say 90% 14.4V) ???

It's an option for people that may have an issue with accessory items like Gerry's UHF that had over voltage issues. He was able to select a different option and his issues went away. Also for others that want to possibly hold higher SOC but still want some extra fuel economy. Others will just want to play with it and look at the numbers.

If everything is working for you and you have no issues then leave it alone.

saeb wrote: ↑Fri May 11, 2018 6:36 pm I would be getting your current battery load tested.

My original lasted 2.5 years with some pretty average numbers towards the end.

New battery resting voltage is 12.6 and I have seen 96% SOC in DBM. I only drive 20km each way a day.

Personally I think your battery is stuffed but a load test will give you an answer. Your local battery place or auto elect will check it for you.

It has been tested by 3 in dependant battery companies, also by my Ford dealer and it is good.

I am only posting what my dealer told me so right or wrong, I don't know.

I think I am creating my battery issues, due to medical issues the Ranger sits in the shed most days.

RossPat wrote: ↑Fri May 11, 2018 8:10 pm

saeb wrote: ↑Fri May 11, 2018 6:36 pm I would be getting your current battery load tested.

My original lasted 2.5 years with some pretty average numbers towards the end.

New battery resting voltage is 12.6 and I have seen 96% SOC in DBM. I only drive 20km each way a day.

Personally I think your battery is stuffed but a load test will give you an answer. Your local battery place or auto elect will check it for you.

It has been tested by 3 in dependant battery companies, also by my Ford dealer and it is good.

I am only posting what my dealer told me so right or wrong, I don't know.

I think I am creating my battery issues, due to medical issues the Ranger sits in the shed most days.

I think you are correct. Lack of use is never going to see a good charge. Good tip for those using there car less than most, thanks Ross.

Ok guys, I have a camper trailer with 2 x 100 Ah batteries which only gets used maybe half a dozen times a year. The rest of the time I don't have additional batteries.

What is the general consensus - dual battery mode enabled or not? I don't see the option of different levels of charge. Maybe I need to update Forscan.

Maybe just enable Dual battery mode when I am using the camper then turn it back off when I'm home?

There are 4 charging options available.

Disabled 12 Volt
Partially Enabled 13 Volt
Partially Enabled 14 Volt
Partially Enabled 15 Volt
Fully Enabled 16 Volt

At the moment I am running 95% @ 15.2v

I will go to 100% @ 16v when using the caravan.

The original Ford battery had trouble reaching 73% capacity, even running at 16v and would lose charge quickly.

I have installed a quality AGM battery and if on 16v, it reaches 100% capacity very quickly.

It also reaches 95% very quickly if on 15.2v.

It also holds it's charge for a long time of no use.

So my suggestion would be if you are running an original battery, have it on 16v, dual battery mode.

Just be aware though that on 16v setting the battery charge voltage will sometimes go over 15v.

That served to stuff up my Icom uhf radio. Fortunately it was covered under warranty and it's now connected to my second battery and fed by a Redarc dc-dc charger.

That's also the reason I chose the 14v setting.

Did you measure this with a meter or just the display on the SG. I see no more than 14.3 on the UG ever.. I might pull out the meter. I find I really hear my alternator working hard at 5 in the morning, the noise is really noticeable. Does anyone else hear theirs working hard on a first startup?

That was just from the SG as I was driving. With dual battery mode off it would regularly shoot up to 15 plus on override then down to 12 ish when accelerating. Setting it to 14v it rarely goes past 14.2.

Mine in DBM always charges at 14.8v, it doesn't fluctuate.

While out for a drive yesterday and set at 15.2 volts it was very erratic.

Most of the time it sat on 13.1 volts and showed a discharge of - 8amps.

Then it would jump to 15.2 volts and show a charge of +34amps.

The only reason I can think of it being so erratic is that I left home with the battery charged to 100% capacity.

As I had it set to 95% and 15.2volts maybe it was confused as the battery was already higher than the 95% I had it set to.

Maybe it was dealing with it by sitting @ 13.1v and discharging the battery.

I maybe way off but that is all I can come up with.

I can never hear my alternator, too deaf.

I have looking through this post and others about disabling and enabling duel battery mode but I can not find any that actually say how to do it. I found a great one on resetting the fuel tank size that went trough every step and even gave the hex values for other size tanks. It even mentions changing the battery mode but I can not find anything to tell me how. Can anyone please tell me how or direct me to a post that does. Thanks, Glenn.

Do you have access to a laptop?

If you do install Forscan then get the free extended licence for it.

Do you have a dongle, the Black OBDLink MX is a good one.

Once you are ready you will get plenty of help.

Have a read of this viewtopic.php?f=12&t=14

glennkirw wrote: ↑Fri Sep 21, 2018 7:42 am I have looking through this post and others about disabling and enabling duel battery mode but I can not find any that actually say how to do it. I found a great one on resetting the fuel tank size that went trough every step and even gave the hex values for other size tanks. It even mentions changing the battery mode but I can not find anything to tell me how. Can anyone please tell me how or direct me to a post that does. Thanks, Glenn.

Assuming you are up and running with the required tools then open the non asbuilt line for BCM, you will be greeted with a list of pre configured items where you will see the setting to change the battery mode. If you still have dramas, let us know and I will do another tutorial for non asbuilt changes.

I have forscan and extended licence that runs out soon but I found the interface I was using is not upto it so I am waiting for a new one to arrive.
Forsan said they had trouble with the MX so I went with a usb version they tested but it seems nobody else has an issue with them.
I have seen details for the f150, say in BCM look for (Removed by Admin). Is the ranger the same?

I will give it a look as soon as the interface comes. Battery and tank size.

glennkirw wrote: ↑Tue Sep 25, 2018 8:37 am I have forscan and extended licence that runs out soon but I found the interface I was using is not upto it so I am waiting for a new one to arrive.
Forsan said they had trouble with the MX so I went with a usb version they tested but it seems nobody else has an issue with them.

Have you got the RED OBDLink MX by chance?

They are WiFi and people do have issues with them.

That's why I suggested the Black MX Bluetooth, no one seems to have problems with them.

With a Bluetooth dongle you can leave it plugged into the second port..... viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1541

glennkirw wrote: ↑Tue Sep 25, 2018 8:37 am I have forscan and extended licence that runs out soon but I found the interface I was using is not upto it so I am waiting for a new one to arrive.
Forsan said they had trouble with the MX so I went with a usb version they tested but it seems nobody else has an issue with them.

I have already added these options in Forscan in the non asbuilt options, you do not need to edit hex and doing so with values you are unsure of will lead to problems. Do not use the above code as it will not do what you want and you will end up with a flat battery at some point.

If you scroll up you will see the available option as there is a picture. USB hardware device is listed here wp/product/forscan-usb-dongle/

I have put some additional information in the Forscan tutorial regarding this but will do another one at some point with more detail.

So interesting observation in relation to my dual battery mode experience.
I have had dual battery mode enabled ever since the car was new so never really known any different. I did this because I got electric brakes, Anderson plugs and reverse camera installed by the dealer as part of the new car deal as I have a caravan.

It is only since I have got the forscan I have been able to see if it was enabled or not. I can confirm it was on the 1600 fully enabled 100% dual battery mode.

I decided to turn it off just for fun until I next tow the caravan as it is so easy to activate again when required. I noticed the following (also monitoring with a Scangauge)
- smoother idle
- at least 0.5lph - possibly up to 1lph fuel saving
- car seems quieter and a little more responsive / smoother (this may be in my head?)
- generally sat between 12.8v - 13.2v at idle or under acceleration
- instant 14.5v when coasting or braking

It was also interesting my battery was down at 60% in dual battery mode (not sure for how long as I hadn’t been monitoring it) however it is now running at 82% in single battery mode.

I will leave it in single battery mode to monitor over the coming weeks, however so far so good.

First time I have seen a post that says there is a fuel gain, maybe at idle there will be, but so small it is a wonder you noticed it.

Usually in normal mode the battery is around 70% and in dual it reaches 100%, that's what most do anyway.

Can't say I have ever noticed any difference in response or noise in any mode, but there maybe.

The OEM battery quality is not all that good but when you eventually upgrade things may change.

Pretty sure I posted this on the new Ranger forum a few years back but yes you area spot on. I also notice between .5 and .8 fuel savings when the BMS is left to do its own thing. This may or may not apply to those with 2 batteries though but I may disable again to see what happens.

Basically as Gerry has basically said, your current main battery may well be on its way out. I only drive 40km a day and over night both batteries are showing approx 80% in the mornings. If I disable the second battery it's more like 87%. Max charge you will most likely see with BMS enabled is about 72% from memory.

So far my current economy is in the high 9s to will disable and see what comes of it.

Meanwhile if you want to boost the voltage while the BMS is on then putting the Parker's on will do it.

I finally got the battery monitor off, also did the high level brake light while I was there and set the 120kpm chime but abs and other lights were on after I finished and none of it would work. Had to relearn abs settings and everything came good although I am now getting 5 codes that I can not get rid of. 1 bcm, 1 pam and 3 ipc. Tried reloading back up but they still keep coming back. Is there anything I can do? Remember px, not pxii. Glenn.

Another observation.

I used to run DBM Fully Enabled @ 100% with the original battery and the best I got was 92% capacity.

I changed over to a better quality battery and there is a huge difference.

Running DBM @ 100% charges the battery to 100% capacity very quickly and maintains it.

I then tried Partially Enabled @ 95%, the battery still reaches 100% capacity, just takes a little longer to reach it.

I am now trying Partially Enabled @ 90%, it still reaches 100% capacity but just takes longer to reach it.

I am thinking that battery quality is making all the difference.