Ranger Mods

Not a fan of anything mounted to the driveline and I'm surprised by ARBs lack of suitable engineering design around this. Each to their own but I wouldn't mount anything on any driveline component

Lincolnland wrote: ↑Tue Apr 04, 2023 6:16 pm Not a fan of anything mounted to the driveline and I'm surprised by ARBs lack of suitable engineering design around this. Each to their own but I wouldn't mount anything on any driveline component

I wouldn't want that either, very poor design

Bala1 wrote: ↑Tue Apr 04, 2023 3:33 pm Oh well, you have 3 more bolts to keep an eye on now.

It's obviously something that ARB considered as you can see that there are three "cut-outs" to allow for a 19mm socket and and extension bar to be inserted to check, install and tighten those three bolts. I used Red Loctite on the threads when I retensioned them.
At 60Nm I dont see them coming loose any time soon but I'll certainly check them at least every 10,000 kms when I change the transmission fluid in the transfer box.
But yes, your'e right, the number of bolts, nuts, electrical connections etc. to be checked with every daily "spanner check" when we are touring seems to have an expertential growth.

I would have recommend antisieze on those rather than loctite. With loctite you need to break it to check tension, then you need to reapply. You risk build up in the thread hole unless you run a tap to clean it, and damage to the alloy thread.

Bala1 wrote: ↑Wed Apr 05, 2023 9:21 am I would have recommend antisieze on those rather than loctite. With loctite you need to break it to check tension, then you need to reapply. You risk build up in the thread hole unless you run a tap to clean it, and damage to the alloy thread.

You seem to be determined to find things negative. Peptic ulcers ??
Bala, I have no intension of unscrewing these bolts until such time as I've built the replacement transfer box with the fluid cooler and circulation pump and then I'll be rebuilding it as a future spare or just using it as a door stop.
Until then, the same as checking any torqued bolt, nut or stud I set my torque wrench ( I carry a set of two at all times in my on-board tool kit, 3/8" & 1/2" with ranges of 0-90Nm ) and if it clicks at the required torque setting then I leave it.
Anti-sieze paste is great stuff, I carry a small container of copper anti-sieze in my car tool kit but it doesn't "lock" the bolt or prevent it from unscrewing, it simply prevents it from becoming age corroded into the thread.
To release Red Loctite all you need to do is to apply a small but direct heat application on the bolt head and bingo, the transmitted heat will release the thread. I just use my gas powered soldering iron with the tip removed using it as a bunsen burner.

RossPat wrote: ↑Tue Apr 04, 2023 9:14 pm

Lincolnland wrote: ↑Tue Apr 04, 2023 6:16 pm Not a fan of anything mounted to the driveline and I'm surprised by ARBs lack of suitable engineering design around this. Each to their own but I wouldn't mount anything on any driveline component

I wouldn't want that either, very poor design

Considering that there isnt a cross member aft of the transfer box to fix the rear of a protection plate covering the transfer box if it was attached at the front on the rear gearbox cross member I'd like to see how you would do it.
I think Allan Brown's design and engineering team have done the best they could with what they had to work with and within the limitations of what they know people are prepared to pay. The only solution I can see would be to install a fabricated cross member rear of the transfer box to support it and that would interfere with the location of the OE fuel tank.
While reconnecting the windscreen washer hose ( long story - read it elsewhere ) I measured the vertical distance from the bottom of the welded box section of the gearbox protection plate to the underside of the transfer skid plate - the clearance is 80mm.

[quote=Boydie
[/quote]
You seem to be determined to find things negative. Peptic ulcers ??

[/quote]

That is the problem with text communication, the reader can interpret it how ever they want.

I am just offering an opinion based on my experience of what i would have done and why. You or others may or may not agree, but that is fine.

Boydie wrote: ↑Wed Apr 05, 2023 11:24 am You seem to be determined to find things negative

Not at all
Just because it is tensioned correctly and you carry a workshop with you doesn't mean it won't strip out
I did a similar thing many years ago and stopped using Loctite or similar on aluminium
Aluminium has advantages, also disadvantages
I use marine grease on everything, have for many years

RossPat wrote: ↑Wed Apr 05, 2023 9:05 pm

Boydie wrote: ↑Wed Apr 05, 2023 11:24 am You seem to be determined to find things negative

Not at all
Just because it is tensioned correctly and you carry a workshop with you doesn't mean it won't strip out
I did a similar thing many years ago and stopped using Loctite or similar on aluminium
Aluminium has advantages, also disadvantages
I use marine grease on everything, have for many years

All the transmission OE bolts have Blue Loctite or a similar sealant used on them, this application is verified by the Ford Workshop Manual and Blue is neigh on impossible to undo without a heat application.
Marine grease will certainly prevent corrosion of the threads especially when near the ocean, which in my case is very rare being a inland desert lover.

Been using marine grease for years in 4wd and never had bolts come loose & easily undone if needed.
Covered most of inland Australia over many years

Just to clarify the red and blue loctites.

https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/know ... r-you.html

Bala1 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 06, 2023 3:40 pm Just to clarify the red and blue loctites.

https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/know ... r-you.html

I already have that product safety sheet.
Ford have their own part numbers for the Blue and Red "Locktites". They may or may not be actual "Locktite" products.
Even so, I've used Red Loctite for the past 20 odd years and never had a single issue and by using my gas solering iron as a mini blow torch on the hex head of the bolt or screw I have always been able to easily break the chemical seal. I then use a wire brush to remove any dry chemical residue from the bolt threads before re-applying Red Locktite before screwing and torqueing the bolt back in.
That is the advised method of application issued by Locktite.