Ranger Mods

Just on my recent experience with the starter motor. I removed all the ARB underbody protection plates and saw that I have a oil leak on the Transfer Box.
I thought that this would be due to a leaking gasket as the leak was clearly coming from the split casing joint. I was gobsmacked to learn that there is no gasket - its just a silicon seal joint !!!
When I repair this leak I'll be making up a gasket from 0.75 mm oil resistant compound gasket material that I have in my man shed, - to rely just on a machined surface and silicon sealing compound retaining hot ATF is sheer madness - IMO. I guess the actuaries have been at it again.
The Transfer Gear Box has a sturdy metal guard bolted to the underside of it to protect the box and this guard has clearly taken a couple of small hits over the past four years so this has possibly caused the silicon seal to fail, a gasket on the other hand would retain a degree of flexibility.

Machined alloy cases have been running without paper gaskets for a very long time. Motorcycle engine as one example. Toyota use what appears to be red rtv sealant.

IMHO If you fit a gasket you will be pulling it off again sooner rather than later.

Looking at mine and scratching with my finger nail it is a grey sealant. It will be the 3 bond product in the link below. Same as I have used on motor cycle engine for over 30 years. All the Japanese engines use it.

Final clean the surfaces with acetone before applying.

https://www.tiperformance.com.au/produc ... t-sealant/

Bala1 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 19, 2023 1:07 pm IMHO If you fit a gasket you will be pulling it off again sooner rather than later.

Looking at mine and scratching with my finger nail it is a grey sealant. It will be the 3 bond product in the link below. Same as I have used on motor cycle engine for over 30 years. All the Japanese engines use it.

Final clean the surfaces with acetone before applying.

https://www.tiperformance.com.au/produc ... t-sealant/

Brilliant stuff
Used it many years on racing motorcycles, back when they were air cooled and got bloody hot

Bala1 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 19, 2023 1:07 pm Machined alloy cases have been running without paper gaskets for a very long time. Motorcycle engine as one example. Toyota use what appears to be red rtv sealant.

IMHO If you fit a gasket you will be pulling it off again sooner rather than later.

Looking at mine and scratching with my finger nail it is a grey sealant. It will be the 3 bond product in the link below. Same as I have used on motor cycle engine for over 30 years. All the Japanese engines use it.

Final clean the surfaces with acetone before applying.

https://www.tiperformance.com.au/produc ... t-sealant/

Sure, a sealant was used on my Ducati and it never leaked either ( I wish I could say the same about the 2009 Triumph Bonneville ) however on the Ford Ranger transfer case it's a tad different.
The difference is the stone guard. It's not only bloody heavy but its also held onto thre transfer case by the 4 lower 8 mm bolts (14mm hex head ) that hold the lower portion of the two halves of the transfer case together.
Any hard impact on this guard will obviously transmit upwards to these 4 retaining bolts and in turn transfer the shock to the two halves of the transfer box case affecting the integrity of the sealant, which at only microns thick will have zero flexibility and which in my instance it was broken and then obviously leaked.

I guess one solution would be to never go off road. I dont do that crazy off-road stuff but last year when we went west to east on the Great Central Road we camped up at Niagra Dam and while we were never doing more than 5-8 kph looking for a suitable camp site I do recall we had to drive over a couple of large rocks in the track and thinking that I was glad of the under body bash plates, I guess the impact that broke the seal could have occured at that time.

From experience the composite material that I have, once correctly treated and torqued up will compress down to under 0.25mm. I'll go with that unless once I've pulled it down I find that the internal tolerances of the transfer box simply wont allow it, in which case I'll just use the recommended Ford sealant but I'll leave the bash plate off, plasma cut the mounting bracket off and join it to be part of the rear ARB underbody plate.

For a rock to transfer a shock to split the seal on those cases it has to overcome the sealant bonding and the clamp force of all the bolts, after the rubber in the gear box mount has been compressed to the point that it bottoms out. Not likely imo.

The fitting of the bashplate is a likely cause. Undoing the bolts, possibly not done up correctly, the bashplate by design not allowing the bolts to clamp he cases properly.

Bala1 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 19, 2023 3:24 pm For a rock to transfer a shock to split the seal on those cases it has to overcome the sealant bonding and the clamp force of all the bolts, after the rubber in the gear box mount has been compressed to the point that it bottoms out. Not likely imo.

The fitting of the bashplate is a likely cause. Undoing the bolts, possibly not done up correctly, the bashplate by design not allowing the bolts to clamp he cases properly.

The "bash-plate' is I believe, a Ford fitting, I did notice that it has a FoMoCo part number on a small spot-welded plate on the inside of it and it has never been removed since new so "the fitting of the bashplate being a likely cause " isnt really a possibility. Once it stops raining I'll get under ( again - groan ) the Wildtrak and take a photo of it for you. Also on the 6 speed auto the transfer box is seperate from autobox

Sorry I was under the impression the bashplate you were referring to was aftermarket.

Mine has just left for a few days but don't need to look at it. I don't think the bash plate is your problem.

You leak is likely just due to poor sealing from factory.

Bala1 wrote: ↑Fri Jan 20, 2023 12:08 pm Sorry I was under the impression the bashplate you were referring to was aftermarket.

Mine has just left for a few days but don't need to look at it. I don't think the bash plate is your problem.

You leak is likely just due to poor sealing from factory.

Oil is like blood, a small leak can look like a total and fatal haemorrhage. After I cleaned and replaced the bash plate I did a total oil drain, flush and oil change and as the transfer box only takes 2.5 litres of ATF it could only have lost less than .25 of a litre as measured in the catch can that used to be in the kitchen as the cooks liquid measuring jug, - ( thats another sad story ) - so its not an urgent fix on the must to-do list but it will be done prior to our departure for the NT in April. During that trip we will be on the road as it were for 5 months.

Way back in January I did a fluid change in the transfer box, mainly because I noticed a leak that with the use of a torque wrench I rectified ( I guess the bottom three bolts that also hold the stone guard were not tightened up to the correct specification).
The ATF Mercon fluid that I drained was as black as Indian ink - not a nice red colour. Anyway I used some used ATF I keep handy for these purposes and flushed the transfer box out and refilled it with fresh ATF. I've since driven to Innamincka and back, a total distance of around 3500 kms during which I did a 4WD trip of around 200 kms and yesterday doing a full 140,000kms oil change - front and rear differentials, engine and transmission I couldnt but help notice that the transfer box fluid was again jet black.
It didnt "smell" burnt but it wasnt clear red like the almost 16 litres that I drained out of the autobox was, I should add at this juncture that I have an "AFE" "Deep finned" alloy sump that holds and additional 6 litres of ATF fluid.
I recall that on my "old" Land Rover Discovery 300Tdi that I had for 23 years the 5 speed manual gearbox also ran on ATF as did the transfer box / centre differential so obviously ATF has some lubricating ability but I would have thought that for a transfer box to have such a small volume (1.5 litres ) it would have used an oil, not an ATF - can anyone offer a lubricating explanation and is the colour (black) acceptable after only 3500 kms of normal road use ?
We are off to the NT in a few weeks and I'll carry a 2 litre container of Mercon ATF and have a look at the transfer box once we get to our first hosting station - Palm Valley, and see what the colour is then but any comments would be gratefully accepted.

Why is there a bash plate mounted directly to the transfer case? Or have I read that wrong? All of my rangers have guards mounted to the cross member and the chassis. Nothing bolted onto the transfer case itself. I did a fluid swap on my transfer case at 50000km and it was the dirtiest of all the fluids including a magnet full of metal debris.

Lincolnland wrote: ↑Sat Apr 01, 2023 10:15 am Why is there a bash plate mounted directly to the transfer case? Or have I read that wrong? All of my rangers have guards mounted to the cross member and the chassis. Nothing bolted onto the transfer case itself. I did a fluid swap on my transfer case at 50000km and it was the dirtiest of all the fluids including a magnet full of metal debris.

Originally I thought the bash plate was an OE item, however I've since found out that its not. My investigation into why the three bolts were not tightened up to the correct torque has revealled its one of four ARB underbody protection plates, however the "leak" ( only a slight smear of fluid ) has since stopped since I torqued the bolts up correctly.
My transfer case ATF fluid seems to be on a par with yours - black, "dirty" and yes, I recall that there were some metal particles on the drain plug magnet at the first fluid change I mentioned but not on this most recent change.
If when we get to Palm Valley in the NT I find the fluid is black again then I'll be doing a fluid change in the transfer box and then every 10,000 kms from now on.
I did a quick check up on the volume of ATF in the Disco centre differential/transfer box and it held 2.8 litres and only had to cope with 78 kw and 210 Nm of torque delivered from a 2.5 litre 4 cylinder motor so maybe the Ford volume is a bit on the "light" side by comparison and this could be why is why its getting to be overheated.

So does the arb transfer case guard bolt directly to the transfer case? If so that's extremely bizarre

Lincolnland wrote: ↑Sat Apr 01, 2023 8:20 pm So does the arb transfer case guard bolt directly to the transfer case? If so that's extremely bizarre

Yes, it utilizes the bottom three case bolts. Next time it stops raining I'll crawl under and take a photo of it.
It was obviously the loosening and removal of these three bolts that caused the small weep of ATF from the box.
According to the fitting instructions that ARB emailed to me three bolts for this plate were supplied with the under body protections plate kit and I'm guessing that these were slightly longer than the OE bolts to accomodate the thickness of the guard plate.

Bala1 wrote: ↑Fri Jan 20, 2023 12:08 pm Sorry I was under the impression the bashplate you were referring to was aftermarket.

Mine has just left for a few days but don't need to look at it. I don't think the bash plate is your problem.

You leak is likely just due to poor sealing from factory.

My bad. You were right its an ARB protection plate - not OE.
Three longer than std bolts are supplied with the fitting kit, I'm guessing that these are to accomodate the additional thickness (3mm) of the protection plate. My guess is that when fitting it the "mechanic" never torqued the three bolts up correctly and this caused the weep. Having retightened them to the correct torque the weep has ceased,

My bad. You were right its an ARB protection plate - not OE.
Three longer than std bolts are supplied with the fitting kit, I'm guessing that these are to accomodate the additional thickness (3mm) of the protection plate. My guess is that when fitting it the "mechanic" never torqued the three bolts up correctly and this caused the weep. Having retightened them to the correct torque the weep has ceased,
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I can't find info on the transfer case protection online.

As the transfer case is rubber mounted and moves the protection plate can only hang off the case, which is not good.

If it is bolted to the chassis and the case then that is very bad.

Bala1 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 03, 2023 9:11 am If it is bolted to the chassis and the case then that is very bad.

Spot on

RossPat wrote: ↑Mon Apr 03, 2023 10:38 am

Bala1 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 03, 2023 9:11 am If it is bolted to the chassis and the case then that is very bad.

Spot on

No, The subject ARB bash plate is just fixed to the bottom of the transfer case, it uses three supplied HT Bolts that replaced the ( I assume ) existing bottom case bolts.
The plate is made of 2.8-3mm thick mild steel so if the OE bolts were reused they would be too short to pass through the plate and utilise the full thread depth of the main case body.

"As the transfer case is rubber mounted and moves the protection plate can only hang off the case, which is not good."

Bala I think you will find that the front of the transfer case is firmly attached to the rear of the 6R80 automatic gearbox, so it suspended by the autobox rubber mounts to the front and the two shear in rubber mounts to the rear. It cannot move freely and independantly of the gearbox.

Boydie wrote: ↑Mon Apr 03, 2023 3:18 pm "As the transfer case is rubber mounted and moves the protection plate can only hang off the case, which is not good."

Bala I think you will find that the front of the transfer case is firmly attached to the rear of the 6R80 automatic gearbox, so it suspended by the autobox rubber mounts to the front and the two shear in rubber mounts to the rear. It cannot move freely and independantly of the gearbox.

A bit of a misunderstanding in what I was trying say, but that is how things go with text communication.

As the saying goes, a picture is worth 1000 words,

The oem bash plate for the transfer case is bolted to the chassis and the cross member if I recall correctly? I've got a significantly larger and more heavy duty transfer case guard which bolts directly to the chassis rail on the passenger side and picks up 2 existing holes in the cross member. I am unclear how bolting any type of protection device directly to any part of the drive line is beneficial? Surely any type of soft impact will damage the transfer case regardless of how its mounted. I'm still baffled by the installation of bolts directly into the transfer case. In my mind that does little to protect the transfer case itself. The likelihood of shattering the case is higher I would have thought?

Direct from ARB website:

Manufactured from laser cut, pressed and folded 3mm steel for superior strength
Under vehicle protection panels are up to 56% stronger than folded steel alone, providing an optimal strength to weight ratio
Vehicle specific design to complement the PX Ranger and maximise functionality
Superbly engineered to provide optimum protection for vulnerable under vehicle components such as steering, engine sump, transmission and TRANSFER CASE
All steel components are protected with zinc plating
Under vehicle protection for the Ford Ranger consists of four panels. EACH MAIN PROTECTION PANEL BOLTS DIRECTLY TO THE CHASSIS for continuous protection from the ARB bull bar to the transfer case
Compatible with all ARB products, eliminating the need for accessory removal or modification
Recessed mounting bolts are protected and easy to remove for vehicle servicing
Finished in a hard-wearing silver textured powder coat

However, TIAV have a YouTube vid fitting the same kit to a bt50, which as described above bolts to the transfer case. Not something I'd want on an off road rig

Lincolnland I don't think bolting to the case is the best option. Any impact on the plate or even just the weight and vibration could cause a problem with the mounting bolts.

Mine has a light plate bolted to the cross member and chassis which part protects the case.

Sounds like yours has a heavier plate and perhaps larger than original, a good option.

Thats the ARB kit that I have on my Wildtrak.
The small plate in the middle of the far left three is the one in question that bolts onto directly onto the transfer case, I believe that it replaces an OE tin shield. You can see the laser cut oval hole in this plate that is directly below the transfer case drain plug so that the plate never needs to be removed during a routine service. Looking at it it's more of a "skid" plate than one designed to take a severe vertical hit.
Below it in the photo is a flat plate with slotted fixing holes that bolts onto the rear chassis cross member to hold the rear of the other narrow plate, (top left) that protects the underside of the gearbox and the front of the transfer box.
The only "modifications" I had to do on the kit installed on my Wildtrak was to have two plasma cut holes cut in the long section plate to give an additional 5mm clearance for the AFE Alloy sump on my gearbox and a 50mm hole cut directly below the drain plug to facilitate easy fluid changes.

It finally stopped raining so I was able to take this photo of the guard on the transfer box. As you may be able to see its about 25 mm higher than the guard plate that protects the gearbox and its more of a skid plate than an impact guard, anyway it is what it is and its far better than the tin OE plate that Ford supplied.

Oh well, you have 3 more bolts to keep an eye on now.