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30,000 kilometre Full Service

Iainboyd
Donator
Donator
Posts: 247
Joined: Thu Oct 26, 2017 1:41 am
Location: Bullaburra
Model Of Vehicle: RANGER WILDTRAK PX2
Year Of Vehicle: 2017
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I carried out a full engine service last Sunday, not without incidents though. To start with I had a Ryco Filter Service kit, this comprises of air, pollen fuel and oil filters and I had an additional fuel filter for the fuel pre filter.

The Air filter is a breeze. The pollen air filter is a hassle, not so much for 'popping" the glove compartment out but getting the slow release cable back onto its clip really needs some thinking about, I ended up using a right angled metal scribing tool.

Ahh, the OE fuel filter, well while I can understand the Ford logic for a fast and easy connect system of hose clips I do wonder at the construction and I managed to snap the clip on the fuel return to the tank hose :-( so I'll have to source one from a wrecked car, (I refuse to pay Ford for an entire hose !!) my Fuel master primary filter fuel filter is a design that engineering nightmares are made from. The bracket also holds the Provent 150 oil catch can.
There are two major issues with it. 1.) the hoses from the tank and to the OE filter are far too close to the A/C alloy pipes, ensure that the screws are near to the filter and NOT the Nyloc nuts, t=you need every millimetre of available space to ensure that the two sets of hoses, fuel and refrigerant don't rub ! Secondly the cap of the fuel filter prevents access to the hex head screws replace them with Unbreako socket head screws, even then, with a well rounded socket head tool they are a sod to undo and to tighten. Thirdly, when assembling the new Fuel Master 30 micron filter and fitting the water bowl make sure you use a modicum of diesel proof gasket silicon sealant as otherwise, as I found to my dismay, even tightened up it can leak ! One thing I will be doing in the very near future is replacing the Provent 150 for a Provent 200 oil catch can, the latter is located adjacent to the windscreen washer bottle - a far easier and accessible location.

Next came the fuel priming, the Ford service book says leave the ignition on for 45 seconds which is about right for the tank pump to self prime both filters. No great issues there.
I guess there will be a fair discussion on the forum on fuel filter qualities, I don't see the point in installing a primary or secondary fuel filter that is better than the OE which is 5 microns, not when the injectors are designed to inject up to 10 microns - filtering down to 3 microns is, in my opinion a total waste. A micron is 1000th of 1 millimetre, get out your steel ruler and just imagine that !! Even a good electronic micrometre isn't able to open up to that small distance. Sure, a large flow capacity 3 micron fuel filter can be installed that will not adversely affect the performance and flow of the primary fuel pump but at 3 microns its going to get clogged very quickly simply because it wont pass anything larger than 3 microns. If you fit one my advice would be to also install a low flow alarm to audibly warn you when it becomes blocked.

Oil Filter.
Get everything ready, New oil cartridge, "O" ring ( I had both soaking in clean oil in an old ice cream container) right angled metal workers scribing tool to hook out the old "O" ring, 27mm socket and 1/2" drive and switch on your smart phone timer and off you go -- from start to finish changing the oil filter core, I did it in under 2 minutes, I then opened up the sump oil tap ( I fitted this at my last service replacing the original sump plug) and as the oil was still hot it flowed out very quickly and ceased to flow (sump empty) at 7 1/2 minutes. The engine then took a full 9 1/4 litres to reach the full mark on the dipstick.
Total time for the oil and filter change was an easy 8 1/4 minutes and no stress. I started the engine and the RedArc oil pressure read 45 psi -- happy days. If, like me you have underbody protection - not the crap issued by Ford - I would recommend the sump oil tap with the spigot and drain hose if only so you can empty the oil hot and fluid without scalding yourself. My hose is just long enough to reach the oil catch tray and I poke it up into a convenient hole in the suspension cross member when its not in use just to stop it from dangling down.

The rest of the service was as per the service manual, mainly it's just a spanner check on all the front and rear suspension, brake condition, shoes and pads, the transmission fluid levels, auto box and transfer box, brake fluid, coolant and looking at the condition of the belts ( thankfully the timing belt is visible with an Aldi optical flexible camera) looking at and checking all the suspension rubbers and mounts and after some initial very careful running in I don't have any of the dreaded front or real oil seal leaks so many other owners have experienced.

Well, that was my 30,000 kilometre service experience, the next will be at 40,000.
Shadow Black Wildtrak with accessories and upgrades for touring Australia, mainly the central deserts but also over the next five years the Cape, The Kimberly's Arnhem Land and the Kakadu.