Ranger Mods

FORD RANGER SYNC 3 HARDARE UPGRADE / CONVERSION
Replacing Sync 2 with Sync 3

G’day all, I’m vnhon2. A long time lurker, first time poster!

I have a 2016 PX2 Ford Ranger with Sync 2 and I don’t really like it.. so I decided to upgrade to the Sync 3 system.

Found a local wreckers selling a 2017 PX2 with Sync 3 screen and decided to take the bite and upgrade mine!! If you were to purchase a screen from a different vehicle such as a Mustang, you’d need it to be reprogrammed for the ranger.

I’ve been rigorously following this specific forum forums on a user in the states who did this upgrade. Now I am sure mine was an easy upgrade as it is programmed to my specific car. (XLT)

Anyways with all this information out of the way I am super happy of how much more functionality i get out of sync 3. So much quicker and the best investment so far! I am especially happy I did not need to modify anything and it was just a quick transfer of screens with no new brackets needed!

Ford Sync 3 does not support the SD Card Reader that is built-in to the older Media / USB Hub's. Sync 3 doesn't use the GPSM Module behind the instrument cluster for navigation, as it needs its own GPS Antenna with a Blue Fakra connector. If you leave both connected, your mini dash screen with the compass nav will start jumping from S to N or just random. You must disconnect the exisiting GPSM antenna on the ranger, read on and I will show you how to do it.

Sync 3 upgraded from Sync 2:



Parts:


INSTRUCTIONS

Removal of plastic trimmings;

I used some plastic trim removal tools I bought from Autobarn. You can also buy these at super cheap auto.

Remove these first! It makes removing the other plastics easier.



Remove left one piece vent




Remove right vent


Remove plastic trimming from right to centre


Pop this little cap open, after its open push down and put gear into D (This gives us more room to work with):


Unscrew the 2 bolts on both sides on the 12V ports & unplug them:



After removing them, unscrew these screws. 7mm hex bit:
Note that where I put the arrow there is two more screws hiding under! see second pic!



Now you can gently take it off lifting it upwards & unplug the two connectors ,you should see this.


Remove these 4 screws:


Now you should be able to take out sync 2 without hesitation. Take out the cables. To pull out the big one you need to push down in the middle then push they grey lever up and using that lever to disconnect the cable.



Now grab your new GPS antenna with the FAKRA connector and we are going to mount it where the old antenna was. (on top of the cluster)

Begin to remove the driver side aircon vent & unplug mirror cable:



Remove 4 screws to remove plastic cover for cluster and pull out (sorry bad pic):


Remove these 4 bolts (7mm hex), and after you removed them unlatch as shown:


unplug and remove cluster:



You will see the GPSM module tucked under the dash:


As you can see it is sitting on a metal plate, just push it out towards you and should come out like this:


Old GPSM module was stuck on via double sided tape. I took it off and put my new GPS antenna on it, also feeding the new lead to sync 3 head unit.





Plug everything in!


Reverse the install!

After the install, I used my existing usb module as I am waiting for a wiring loom to come. You will get this error but you can just ignore it. Everything will still work as per usual.






NOTE: I AM YET TO INSTALL THE NEW USB MODULE HUB. I will keep this thread updated.




The only extra things I needed to purchase were;

1. ANY Fakren GPS Antenna. I bought a cheap $20 one from eBay.
2. Wiring loom unless you know how to splice cable.
3. USB Module so that Carplay works. Exisiting USB Hub works with Andriod Auto but that USB hub error gets annoying.

Seriously happy with this upgrade. Sync 3 is so much better.

GerryP's Changing Splash Screens: viewtopic.php?f=12&t=233

USB MODULE HUB INSTALL: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=1046&p=3449#p3449

Nice write up, I've been driving a few XLT's with the Sync3 lately while Ford try and fix all my niggly warranty issues, personally apart from the navigation allowing to say a full number like 23 rather than 2,3 when using voice activation I found it to be too bright on the screen, clunky/ boxy icons on the display and everything else about the same. Oh and almost forgot, no option to personalize the wallpaper, I do like that a lot on the Sync2. But good to know we can upgrade in the future if required. Thanks for sharing.

ira11y wrote: ↑Mon Feb 12, 2018 7:38 pm Nice write up, I've been driving a few XLT's with the Sync3 lately while Ford try and fix all my niggly warranty issues, personally apart from the navigation allowing to say a full number like 23 rather than 2,3 when using voice activation I found it to be too bright on the screen, clunky/ boxy icons on the display and everything else about the same. Oh and almost forgot, no option to personalize the wallpaper, I do like that a lot on the Sync2. But good to know we can upgrade in the future if required. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks. For me it's not too bad, I just like how responsive the thing is compared to sync 2. But yes I agree it's cool with sync 2 you are able to actually change your background.

Well done on the write up and hopefully this can help others in future.

My Sync3 unit has arrived today so I will definately be using your brilliant write up for a quick install.

Android Auto here I come.

Done and done.

Took a little over an hour as I also fitted the Lightforce switch panel while I was at it. Waiting on my USB hub but apart from that all good.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Night mode is nice and the red looks better in person. Now to try and figure out Android Auto then start the customising.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

A quick play. Blue instead of red and Raptor startup logo.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Starting the basics. PIDs are though Torque but need to do some setting up.

YouTube videos and I can view my home cctv while driving.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Great work Stewart!! The Raptor splash screen is also what I did to mine. It looks so much better! (And cooler haha) Sync 3 is a huge difference and I love driving my car more than ever with it.

Interesting read up guys I'd love to do mine in the near future

hi
Does it just plug and play?
Do we need to change anything in BCM?
At Sync 2 will show your VIN,don't know about Sync 3.

andrew1918 wrote: ↑Thu Feb 22, 2018 9:23 pm hi
Does it just plug and play?
Do we need to change anything in BCM?
At Sync 2 will show your VIN,don't know about Sync 3.

You do need a cable harnesses to make it plug and play. (for the usb module)

No changes needed in the BCM.

Sync 3 will show your VIN.

Also depending on what vehicle you purchase the unit from will depend on whether additional programming is required. Eg Wildtrack to XLT, Mustang to Ranger/Everest etc.

saeb wrote: ↑Fri Feb 23, 2018 6:22 pm Also depending on what vehicle you purchase the unit from will depend on whether additional programming is required. Eg Wildtrack to XLT, Mustang to Ranger/Everest etc.

Are you sourcing from wreckers, or buying new? (and if so, part numbers?)

Wreckers at the moment. I will have some new prices in time. You are sourcing the Sync3 head unit and USB Hub. I have not bothered to look at the part numbers at this stage as wreckers have not asked for them.

Do you source the loom for the USB hub from wreckers as well?

Been reading up on your Sync 2 to 3 conversions vnhon2 & Stewart. This is excellent news.
Thank you very much for the thorough write ups! Well done.
Got me excited.
Time to query the wreckers I guess!
Cheers,
Russell.

jaygee83 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 27, 2018 2:45 pm Do you source the loom for the USB hub from wreckers as well?

I asked for the USB hub with 6 inches of loom so yes. You can purchase an adaptor for the hub so it is plug and play, ask vnhon2 as he may still have one. I used the plug and wire from the donars cut loom and spliced it in. Not difficult as it's 2 wires.

Speed cameras enable in Sync 3 Nav.

==== USB MODULE REPLACEMENT UPDATE ====

Got my module, and have my cable adapter to convert the old USB hub to the newer USB hub so I can get rid of that USB hub error & use Car Play.


Remove the 12 volt module: (dont forget to remove the side panels)





Remove the little cap, and put the shifter into N or D and start prying the sides of the fascia to remove it. Unplug all connectors leading to the moudles. (4WD switcher, The buttons for traction control, etc.):





You will see this! The Media hub connector. Unplug both cables that are plugged into the hub.



Now after unplugging, I plugged my harness adapter into the plug and other end will go into new USB module.



If you are using a wiring harness from ford you will need to to this: (Solder recommended)

USB Interface Power Connector Wiring Guide:

Installation of WPT1239 Harness (Utilizing Pins 1 and 4):

Pin 1 is going to Pin 1 on Existing Media Hub Harness - Yellow/Blue Wire
Pin 4 is going to Pin 10 on Existing Media Hub Harness - White/Blue Wire
Pins 2 and 3 are NOT used and should be taped off, Pin 4 is the one closest to connector release tab

Take the old module out of the fascia. Squeeze the plastic grips on the back to get them out. They're all around the module.



Insert the new USB module inside the fascia, and plug in all the required plugs:





Reverse the install and put plastics back to where they were, and wallah! Apple Car play and new light up USB hub

Well done on the write Valiant. I pushed mine out while I did the screen install. Yesterday I was able to splice the wire to the USB hub in that little pocket so thankfully do not have to remove it all again.

If you can get the pigtail from the other vehicle then pin 1 and 4 are the same wiring colours on old and new so you cannot go wrong.

saeb wrote: ↑Wed Feb 28, 2018 8:10 pm Well done on the write Valiant. I pushed mine out while I did the screen install. Yesterday I was able to splice the wire to the USB hub in that little pocket so thankfully do not have to remove it all again.

If you can get the pigtail from the other vehicle then pin 1 and 4 are the same wiring colours on old and new so you cannot go wrong.

Thanks Stewart. Love that you were thinking ahead!

There you go guys! If you do not want to buy the adapter read above

saeb wrote: ↑Fri Feb 23, 2018 6:22 pm Also depending on what vehicle you purchase the unit from will depend on whether additional programming is required. Eg Wildtrack to XLT, Mustang to Ranger/Everest etc.

Will Wildtrak work at XLT?

Looks so much better with the Raptor splash screen and red and black. And given getting up the TPMS data... hmmmmm

At the end of the day having an Ultragauge or similar is better than using the TPMS on the Sync3. Every time you wanted to do something else you would have to switch out of it, so it kind of pointless really.