Ranger Mods

For reference see the below video. It is something I found on the tube as I did not record mine doing it. The vehicle in the video does have the same symptoms though.

As you can see it will do this for a short while then eventually stall. You can keep it going by giving it some throttle but it's not a nice sound dropping it into drive at 1500 + RPM though.

My vehicle has done it twice now but on leaving it sit for an hour or the next day it magically fixes itself. I suppose the purpose of this write up is for anyone that needs a quick instant fix. You may be in the middle of Australia over sand dunes or just trying to drive in peak hour traffic and this problem would have you sitting and waiting for repairs and until it cleared itself.

The problem is a build up of crud on the VCV ( Diesel Fuel Volume Control Valve ), Fuel metering valve or 10 other different names depending on who you talk to. The official Ford name is the VCV so I will stick with that.

Basically to keep things short. With this crud build up, when slowing down or trying to idle the fuel pressure rises when it should be dropping hence the PCM goes into mental mode. You will get no fault codes either so taking it to Ford will usually end up in the fuel pump being removed and sent off to be cleaned. It is not a warranty item and you will not have the use of your car for a few day, anyway you get where I'm going.... go get a second mortgage.

I could go on about the quality of the fuel or the tolerances in the fuel system but you can do your own research. Watch some you tube videos on how the pumps work etc.

The fix which at the moment is being done every other week at one workshop is to put battery voltage straight to the solenoid. Now these are just a plain coil style solenoid and all you are doing is just triggering it numerous times. DO NOT PUT BATTERY VOLTAGE TO THE SOLENOID FOR A PROLONGED TIME, YOU JUST WANT TO TAP THE WIRE ON THE BATTERY TERMINAL. Leaving full battery power to the solenoid for extended MAY end in tears although it is probably rated to 16 odd volts and MAY be fine. You are just knocking the crud off the needle.

As you can see in the below pictures I have an orange plug with 2 wires plugged into the solenoid. You will find this on different Ford vehicle on different type of sensors or actuators, I do not have a list so visit a wrecking yard. As it is a solenoid it is NOT polarity conscious so do not be concerned with which wire goes to positive or negative.

Once you have removed the harness plug then put your own in and 4 or 5 taps on the battery should be enough dislodge most of the build up. Put some cleaner in your tank and forget about it for another 20, 50, 100k.

Do not do this to just any vehicle as some are PWM and doing so will end in tears.

Speaking to my auto elect mate the other day and he was saying he has performed the same procedure on some Nissan in the past. So in essence this is not some new idea and has been used by different workshops for years. This is a proven fix for the problem as described and has been used in Transits for years ( for those that do not know, the transits had our engine long before a Ranger ). If you have fault codes then this fix probably does not apply to you.

I will keep my little plug with extended wires tucked away in the vehicle for that day when I really need it, it takes up no room after all.

Mine has a problem that may be related so thanks for the info. Its not exactly the same as it idles fine but of it loses power at times when driving and won't rev over about 2,000rpm and surges when held full throttle. Its at Fordd now and will let you now how it goes.

I saw your post on the Ranger forums and replied. It is not the same issue but could be related in the fact that the needle on the solenoid is gummed up.

Hi Stewart, got my car back today all fixed and at no cost so a big tick for the dealer in that regard.

I only got speak with the head on a stick at the front counter and he reckons it was the "fuel temperature sensor" and that they re[laced it and its all good now. He said that they could not work out why no fault codes for it going to limp mode and suggested it must be the uaichip, however this is not the case and I ket him know that (both when I dropped it off and again when he suggested it). He had no idea why it did it, or what would cause it and claimed ti have not seen it before, hmmmm. Anyway it was no cost is for now I am OK, but I am always suspicious when its never happened before?????

Could this be the same issue you had or same component atleast?

Unrelated.

I cannot say it was or wasn't but they may have seen fuel temp was off and went from there. From past experience when something fails under warranty the real issue is usually not spoken of as such and it's always some other weird problem.

At the end of the day it's a sensor and sensors can fail but the main thing is, it is fixed and it was free so now you can get back to enjoying your ride. U

Roger that mate

Hey Stewart,
Do you have any tips on how to reach that plug?
Thanks.

Skinny hands?

No have not tried, mine come good a few days later so I only played with the one off a vehicle. I know he does it on the car and gets his hands in there without ripping things off so it can be done. Maybe from underneath or through flap in wheel arch?

Thinking if it’s really a pain I will just make a small tool up to push the tab down and pull off the plug. Then reverse to put temp one on. Hmmm maybe that could be the first project to try and make on the 3D printer at work.

Hi Stewart,

That could be a CKP sensor acting up or dirty or out of alignment. This is a known issue in everest and ranger puma engines.

Infact, if you'll check the comments. The owner replied that his issue was already fixed when his dealer replaced the CKP sensor and injector(could just be a bonus or fault in diagnose.)